High quality dampers for the money?
#71
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Another good read! To the OP, not sure how it would factor in on your decision but fwiw, you should be able to buy the KW V3s for significantly less than $2500.
#72
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FWIW, my experience was primarily FWD cars prior to my S2k, from there I had a stock 06, which was great. When I purchased my 01 it came with the GC/Yellows that had just been installed 380f/440r. I was using stock sways, 300 tread wear tires, -1.2f/2.2r camber. The car felt good, but seemed to lack rear end grip, the oversteer was controllable, but was not something I felt I could ever go 10/10 at the couple of autox events I went to. With out a doubt it was way beyond my stock 06 (even on RE-01s).
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
#73
I know someone personally who started with the ground control setup and ended up with DFV's. He said the difference is dramatic - BOTH in ride and performance. I can vouch for the fact his performance improved, based on the times he's now turning. DFV is far better than the GC setup. And KWV3's are great. Wouldn't write them off. They give you control of low-speed compression, which even most $3,000-4,000 shocks don't. But with what you've said, easy choice : DFV.
#74
No doubt the DFV will be superior for all applications. One advantage to the GC is being able to pick spring rates out of the box. Considering I am running factory stagger with MY00 sway bars on RE11 to R888 type tires. What rates would you go?
550f/500r?
500f/450r?
So considering I am on factory 00 shocks, will the step up to the Koni/GC be a good investment? If the difference is subtle then I would go for the DFV even with the extra cost.
550f/500r?
500f/450r?
So considering I am on factory 00 shocks, will the step up to the Koni/GC be a good investment? If the difference is subtle then I would go for the DFV even with the extra cost.
#75
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I don't know if it was mentioned before, but you can get the Konis custom-valved, then send them to GC for the appropriate springs. 550 is the maximum recommended rate for off the shelf Konis, but you can go higher with custom valving.
#76
Originally Posted by bgoetz' timestamp='1412266350' post='23353785
FWIW, my experience was primarily FWD cars prior to my S2k, from there I had a stock 06, which was great. When I purchased my 01 it came with the GC/Yellows that had just been installed 380f/440r. I was using stock sways, 300 tread wear tires, -1.2f/2.2r camber. The car felt good, but seemed to lack rear end grip, the oversteer was controllable, but was not something I felt I could ever go 10/10 at the couple of autox events I went to. With out a doubt it was way beyond my stock 06 (even on RE-01s).
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
#77
No doubt the DFV will be superior for all applications. One advantage to the GC is being able to pick spring rates out of the box. Considering I am running factory stagger with MY00 sway bars on RE11 to R888 type tires. What rates would you go?
550f/500r?
500f/450r?
So considering I am on factory 00 shocks, will the step up to the Koni/GC be a good investment? If the difference is subtle then I would go for the DFV even with the extra cost.
550f/500r?
500f/450r?
So considering I am on factory 00 shocks, will the step up to the Koni/GC be a good investment? If the difference is subtle then I would go for the DFV even with the extra cost.
#78
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Originally Posted by GravyRobber' timestamp='1412391670' post='23356178
[quote name='bgoetz' timestamp='1412266350' post='23353785']
FWIW, my experience was primarily FWD cars prior to my S2k, from there I had a stock 06, which was great. When I purchased my 01 it came with the GC/Yellows that had just been installed 380f/440r. I was using stock sways, 300 tread wear tires, -1.2f/2.2r camber. The car felt good, but seemed to lack rear end grip, the oversteer was controllable, but was not something I felt I could ever go 10/10 at the couple of autox events I went to. With out a doubt it was way beyond my stock 06 (even on RE-01s).
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
FWIW, my experience was primarily FWD cars prior to my S2k, from there I had a stock 06, which was great. When I purchased my 01 it came with the GC/Yellows that had just been installed 380f/440r. I was using stock sways, 300 tread wear tires, -1.2f/2.2r camber. The car felt good, but seemed to lack rear end grip, the oversteer was controllable, but was not something I felt I could ever go 10/10 at the couple of autox events I went to. With out a doubt it was way beyond my stock 06 (even on RE-01s).
I called GC to look into my options for stiffer springs before needing to revalve. They were beyond helpful and indicated that I could go as high as 550. At the time I was convinced that I wanted the same rates on each end or even stiffer in the rear, they strongly encouraged me to reconsider.
I ended up getting some 525 springs and decided to toss them on the front to just see how 525f/440r felt, figuring if I wanted to go stiffer on the rear, I was out nothing. Now at the same time I put on some RS3s and aligned it to -2.0f/-2.5r, so my observations cannot be conclusive that it was the spring rate change, but the change in the car was beyond expected. That next autox I could go 10/10 with all of the confidence in the world and really never felt at all limited by understeer. To put it simply the car had all of the great characteristics of an S2k, but was so easy to drive that I nearly felt guilty. I drive it a ton on the street, some of which are awful roads and to say it isn't stiffer than stock would be a lie, but I have zero complaints.
I am like you, this car is just a fun toy to maybe take to the track a couple times a year, be competitive at local autox events (I actually won the event I spoke of after my changes and there were 3 other s2ks, some set up just for STR), and have fun cruising top down. I would rather save my $ for seat time and the inevitable repair/maintenance that comes with it. My decision was easy because the car came with the yellows, but I would stick with them if given the choice.
[/quote]
That is awesome! I am in the same shoes as you as far as what my car is used for. Its just a fun/weekend/HPDE car, but I wouldn't mind trying to improve it a little bit. At the moment, square setup and supporting mods are not in my budget. I might pick your brain a little bit in the future, because I think a similar setup would suit me well.
#80
Well that is the real question...
It seems there are many people with the Koni/GC that really like them and can't imagine a substantial improvement from a higher dollar shock.
Then there are the few that have experienced both Koni and the DFV. No one in that group seems to indicate the difference was not worth it. As we all know some people just support what they have bought to justify/rationalize their purchase. The truly objective reviewer is difficult to find.
At some point the only way to tell is to make your own move. I will look into it and make my decision. Thanks to all.