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How to trailer the s2000

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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
... your suspension is still getting a workout while on the trailer.
The suspension gets a workout on the track.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #12  
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Any pics of the factory locations as well as the straps used.

I heard backing on is no good as tongue load isnt right for the trailer. Also something about leaving a window down as it can fall out I heard
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:31 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by boyguan
Any pics of the factory locations as well as the straps used.

I heard backing on is no good as tongue load isnt right for the trailer. Also something about leaving a window down as it can fall out I heard

Depends on the trailer. For example my trailer I could back it on if I wanted. Might have to move the car slightly to get the tongue weight right, but as long as you have a little room to move that should work fine. I've never done it though, I figure air resistance will be worse with the car backed on. I have no idea what you're talking about in terms of the window - but you want the windows up all the way, what if it rains?

I personally use:
4 of these: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/90/Towing
2 of these: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/111/TieDowns
2 of these: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/110/TieDowns

I'd recommend getting a different color in the two sizes so you know at a glance which is the shorter one and which is the longer one. Also those sizes will probably work for you but if it's a longer than 18' trailer or way shorter than maybe not.

Where the r hooks go is the small oval slots in the frame rail, one is right near where the side mirrors are, right behind the side skirt. The other is a little in front of the rear wheel.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #14  
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The holes are under the door near the jack point on the outside of the car or is it on the inside of the side seam?
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:36 PM
  #15  
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Holes are near the side jack points. Look for rubber plugs or some elongated/oval holes if they're not there.

My car was initially towed with axle straps around the front wheels and axle straps along the rear subframe and it seemed fine for a short tow. My co-driver prefers compressing the suspension so that it doesn't bounce around as much, so he got some T-hooks and we've been using them ever since. We always cross the straps, it's supposed to help prevent lateral movement and it seems to work for us.

As far as tongue weight goes, we just move the car forward/backwards until the trailer is level and it's usually about right.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #16  
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^ Inward of the jack points about 2-3 inches. They come from the dealer with rubber grommets inserted in the holes unless someone already pulled them out. You will put "J Hooks" or "R Hooks" into these slots and connect the straps to the hooks. All, 100% of the stress is put on the frame of the car, nothing effecting suspension. Personally, I cross front and rear.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #17  
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I highly recommend using the fame connecting T-hooks. You can get the T-hooks pre-installed on your straps or separate to clip your current straps to. You can pull your car out of alignment by ratcheting the wheels or suspension arms. I bought a connector cluster with J, mini-R and mini-T-hooks. The mini-R hook is smaller than the mini-T-hook and seems like it would be much easier to slip out of the frame hole so I always use the T-hook. Look at the frame rails near the tires and you'll find the 4 oval shaped plugs. That's what you insert the R or T-hook into.

I installed E-Tracks on the floor of my trailer and connect the 4 frame straps to the E-Tracks.

The greatest load on the car will come from an emergency stop so don't cross the rear straps. Professional haulers will keep the car in neutral but set the parking brake--you don't want to beat the drive line up and you don't want the car rolling around if the straps come loose. For long haul I put extra straps on the tow hooks.

Personally I would not recommend trying to back the car onto a trailer.

Here's the straps you can order with T-hooks: http://www.macscusto...product/276/All

Here's the t-hooks: http://www.macscusto.../product/89/All


If you're going to be hauling the car on a regular basis you should seriously consider adding a weight distribution hitch to your tow vehicle. E-Trailer has them for around $120 and they really make your tow vehicle handle much better while towing.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by boyguan
Any pics of the factory locations as well as the straps used.

I heard backing on is no good as tongue load isnt right for the trailer. Also something about leaving a window down as it can fall out I heard
Backing a nose heavy car onto a trailer "can" give you too much weight on the rear of the trailer, and therefore too light of a tongue load. Too light of a tongue load can cause trailer sway. Trailer sway can get real ugly real fast.

Conversely, too heavy tongue loads make the tow vehicle too heavy at the rear, and potentially unstable at the front, manifested by bad steering and braking.

Frankly, this situation does not apply to the s2k, since it has nearly 50-50 weight distribution. So which end faces the front of the trailer, is not relevant.

I'd echo Robrob's recommendation and maybe go one step further. Get a weight distributing hitch, with sway control. If at all possible, find someone with a tongue weight scale and make sure the load is balanced properly. Adjust the position of the vehicle to achieve between 10-15% of the trailer load on the tongue. This is the weight where American trailers are designed to preform properly, without swaying.

Not lecturing you, but make sure your tow vehicle is rated for your tongue load (10-15% of total trailer), rated to tow your total pulled load, and has sufficient payload to accommodate your tongue weight plus you and everything you stuff in it for the track. Many times the payload rating is the "gotcha", especially with light and medium duty suv's.

Be safe-have fun.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #19  
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well with E-track on the table I would like to add this
kinda hard to tell in the pics but its L-track or Lagistics Track which is used in airplanes for load hold down.
if you look carefully this car is held down at the wheels.
https://www.dropbox....%2018.09.06.jpg

I have macs axle strap tiedowns
the porsche cup cars come from the EU with the tie downs at the middle of the hub. (single wheel nut spindle) so the whole not tying down at the wheels or suspension points is a hard sell for me.
I guess it could wear rubber bushings out faster or bend something if you crash the trailer.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #20  
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Ok change of plans. My friend has a place I can store the trailer so it's time to look for a flat bed trailer

What size don't need?

Dove tail?

Wooden deck?

I am trying to go the cheap route so I am looking on Craig's list

New trailers are like 2600 with dual axles and used are hard to find but at about 2000
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