How to trailer the s2000

This is when I used a Uhaul trailer and it worked pretty well, I only removed the bumper so that I could strap it down well at the end since my car is low. I only needed a a few pieces of wood to get it on well without bottoming out.

This was using an 18ft trailer with dovetail, needed to load it on a hill and used a number of pieces of wood to get it loaded and unloaded. I think the Uhaul was actually better.
I towed using a 16 ft. aluminum trailer for about a year - worked just fine for the s2000. I would stop the car as soon as i got off the 2 foot dovetail.

This is when I used a Uhaul trailer and it worked pretty well, I only removed the bumper so that I could strap it down well at the end since my car is low. I only needed a a few pieces of wood to get it on well without bottoming out.

This was using an 18ft trailer with dovetail, needed to load it on a hill and used a number of pieces of wood to get it loaded and unloaded. I think the Uhaul was actually better.
My trailer does not have a full deck, which makes it a little harder to load but at the same time lets it double as a makeshift lift at the event since the middle is open. Also it makes it lighter and cheaper. Doing it again I'd repeat my decision and not get a full deck.
Also it's 18', which is a couple feet more than it needs to be to be off the dove tail portion. I'd estimate 16' would probably be as small as you want to go.
Also it's 18', which is a couple feet more than it needs to be to be off the dove tail portion. I'd estimate 16' would probably be as small as you want to go.
First , 16 ft trailers are adequate for the s2k, and are relatively cheap compared to 18+ ft on the used market. However the reason for this is that beyond s2k and miata, you won't fit many other cars on a 16 ft trailer. 18 ft is more common, and your resale market is greater.
Next, decide steel vs aluminum. Aluminum's big advantage in small trailers is the ability to store it outside, and have it hold up much better than steel. The weight advantage of aluminum is also present, but not huge due to the overall size of the trailers.
Open deck vs closed is really personal preference. Closed deck allows you to store some things on the deck, and also to use the trailer for other purposes. I occasionally haul my tractor on it. Open deck allows you access to the underside of the car for fluid changes; potentially saves trailer weight; but does exposé that part of the car during trailering.
As was posted, make sure whatever you get has remove able fenders. I haven't seen a trailer that would allow a track height s2k to open its door above the fender. Also, get a beavertail if possible. My trailer has one and I still need ramp extensions or 2x8. Without the beavertail, you will probably have to get longer ramps or "racer amps". 2x8's won't be an option
I'm kinda curious what you intend to use for a tow vehicle. Light-medium duty like the ridgeline example above "can " be used, but the tow vehicle you are using might be the determining factor as to what type of trailer you can use.
For disclosure, I have an 18 ft featherlite aluminum trailer. I originally towed with a gmc acadia (5200 lb tow rating, 1350 lbs payload rating, 600 lb tongue rating). I use an equal-I-zer brand weight distributing hitch. The Acadia did a pretty good job with this load, but I would not have wanted a heavier steel trailer. I Definately would not even consider towing without the weight distribution-sway control, and brake controller.
Towing is great, just take your time and make good safe decisions about your setup
Next, decide steel vs aluminum. Aluminum's big advantage in small trailers is the ability to store it outside, and have it hold up much better than steel. The weight advantage of aluminum is also present, but not huge due to the overall size of the trailers.
Open deck vs closed is really personal preference. Closed deck allows you to store some things on the deck, and also to use the trailer for other purposes. I occasionally haul my tractor on it. Open deck allows you access to the underside of the car for fluid changes; potentially saves trailer weight; but does exposé that part of the car during trailering.
As was posted, make sure whatever you get has remove able fenders. I haven't seen a trailer that would allow a track height s2k to open its door above the fender. Also, get a beavertail if possible. My trailer has one and I still need ramp extensions or 2x8. Without the beavertail, you will probably have to get longer ramps or "racer amps". 2x8's won't be an option
I'm kinda curious what you intend to use for a tow vehicle. Light-medium duty like the ridgeline example above "can " be used, but the tow vehicle you are using might be the determining factor as to what type of trailer you can use.
For disclosure, I have an 18 ft featherlite aluminum trailer. I originally towed with a gmc acadia (5200 lb tow rating, 1350 lbs payload rating, 600 lb tongue rating). I use an equal-I-zer brand weight distributing hitch. The Acadia did a pretty good job with this load, but I would not have wanted a heavier steel trailer. I Definately would not even consider towing without the weight distribution-sway control, and brake controller.
Towing is great, just take your time and make good safe decisions about your setup






