I use these and have never had an issue

http://www.truckntow.com/p-19274-car...proseries.aspx

Yes I installed D-rings.

 

Ditto. We started duct taping the loose wiring on ours at Nationals and at a rest stop on the way back to fix the brakes (overload/short on the brake controller). Otherwise, it was a good deal for an open (15' for ~$1900, free delivery).

 

I tow my S on a Carson California car hauler I bought used. It has no center and is lighter which I like.
It has electric brakes on the rear axle.
It weighs about 1500 lbs and has a 3 ft dove tail.
I can open the door over the top of the trailer fender just barely.
I added 4 huge mondo bolt on d rings on each corner. I recommend this.
I use ratchet straps with mondo huge j hooks.
I use a Tekonsha Prodigy Brake controller in the truck. Its proportional
and self leveling and is excellent.

** You absolutely want a dove tail trailer. it has the effect of adding 3 ft to your ramps. If your car is low you will still need long ramps especially if you have a splitter.

** I wold strongly recommend using the R hooks because that is what the holes in the frame rails were designed to use and it's nearly impossible for them to come out accidentally. To install them in the hole you have to turn them sideways to get them in, very safe and secure.

** Do not cross the rear straps. If you slam on the brakes in a accident the chances of your S kissing or crushing you head is much greater if you cross the rears.
I cross front and not the rear.

** Make sure you have a minimum of 3 full wraps of strap around the ratchet barrel before you lock them. less than that and they can loosen in transit.

I tow with a full size Toyota Tundra 5.7 V8 and it handles the car and trailer at any speed going up any hill and doing almost anything as if it is nonexistent. If I was towing a big enclosed trailer say 8000lbs and up I would want a diesel. I'm a Firefighter and have driven many many trucks, diesel and gas the Tundra is awesome, the thing kicks A$$.

 

Does anyone make custom chokes for their trailer and mount it in front of the tire? I figure it's cheap insurance

 

Not sure if this helps

http://www.rzeal.com/2012/06/strappi...o-trailer.html

From one of the pics you can see I have a massive metal pillar infront of the trailer that goes up to headlight level which would mangle the S before it hits my truck. That beam now also carries a tire mount and holds my spare.

 

I have seen people put 2x8 wood on the driver side of their trailer floor so the tires on that side are higher to make the driver door clear the fenders.

Notice in this picture how the rear of the truck is compressed and the front is extended. A weight distribution hitch evens the weight between all 4 tow vehicle wheels. It would level the truck so the headlights aren't pointing into the sky. It also prevents pogoing over bumps and reduces trailer sway.

 

I forgot an important thing in my post above.

** Make sure you put the trans in neutral. If it's in gear the car moves a small amount and the pistons go up and down in the same area without lubrication. Not good.

Thanks Rob for the tip on putting the 2x8 down to get more door clearance. Simple and good idea.

 

Heading to look at a homebuilt trailer today. 16' dual axle, only has ramps(no solid floor) and for a dirt cheap price. Will post up pics if I decide to buy it.

 

More importantly, on a car with a timing belt, the constant back and forth motion can cause the timing belt to jump teeth.

 

One other consideration when towing, if you exceed your tow vehicle or trailer's max cargo weight you open yourself to liability issues. If you have an accident and the police determine you were too heavy you can be found at fault in an accident you didn't cause. All of the people and cargo in the tow vehicle count against your cargo limits. It's easier than you think to exceed the limits of a standard pickup truck or SUV when towing a car.

Just an fyi, the correct terminology is "beaver tail" for the downward sloped rear of a trailer.