That's really strange that after lowering 1 inch which normally allows more negative camber, and adding the J's S1 you can't get any more negative camber than when the car was at stock height with stock ball joints.

 

I don't know why, but with stock car I could get -2,5 camber with 5 caster. Now I can get -2,6 with 6,1 caster.

 

my s1's are being returned, my s2's are on the way. No need to mess around with this hocus pocus

 

It isn't hocus pocus...

 

No I get the frustration with tuning this car at times because of all the misinformation.

Everytime I get an alignment I get annoyed thinking about my J's S1 and how I didn't listen to Sunny over @ Tech 3 when he told me go J's S2.

When I couldn't achieve over -2.8 and -7 front caster on my friend's ap2 or my CR, friends and acquaintances pretty much unilaterally said:
-something's bent
-subframe isn't centered
-alignment guy doesn't know how to align s2000
-balljoints installed incorrectly
-Go to West End (yes I would love to but Darrin is all the way in socal)

Basically, I got the gambit of answers. My CR was the 3rd car I installed J's S1s and all 3 cars had about the same limitation on the front range so this was driving me further crazy.

The problem is that Evasive and Go Tuning both publish the same BS information on their websites regarding the J's Racing Products. Basically, if you were going to purchase J's S1s based on either of their advertisements you would think you are getting the following:
Evasive:
-No roll center adjustment
-Blue anodized body
-camber adjustment range 2-5 degrees; +|-3| negative camber - actually I'm not even sure how to interpret their verbiage anymore

GoTuning:
-No Roll center adjustment
- +2 degrees camber
- roll center restored (yes I'm not crazy, in the first half it explicitly states no roll center, then 2 paragraphs later it says it corrects roll center)

Thank God finally for that translation.

I wish someone could succinctly put this on the website or sticky this:
J's S1 Camber Joint v1:
-Blue anodize body
-does not correct or affect roll center
-increase negative camber range by 1 degree

J's S1 Camber Joint v2:
-Red anodize body
-does correct roll center
-increase negative camber range by 1 degree

 

No I get the frustration with tuning this car at times because of all the misinformation.

Everytime I get an alignment I get annoyed thinking about my J's S1 and how I didn't listen to Sunny over @ Tech 3 when he told me go J's S2.

When I couldn't achieve over -2.8 and -7 front caster on my friend's ap2 or my CR, friends and acquaintances pretty much unilaterally said:
-something's bent
-subframe isn't centered
-alignment guy doesn't know how to align s2000
-balljoints installed incorrectly
-Go to West End (yes I would love to but Darrin is all the way in socal)

Basically, I got the gambit of answers. My CR was the 3rd car I installed J's S1s and all 3 cars had about the same limitation on the front range so this was driving me further crazy.

The problem is that Evasive and Go Tuning both publish the same BS information on their websites regarding the J's Racing Products. Basically, if you were going to purchase J's S1s based on either of their advertisements you would think you are getting the following:
Evasive:
-No roll center adjustment
-Blue anodized body
-camber adjustment range 2-5 degrees; +|-3| negative camber - actually I'm not even sure how to interpret their verbiage anymore

GoTuning:
-No Roll center adjustment
- +2 degrees camber
- roll center restored (yes I'm not crazy, in the first half it explicitly states no roll center, then 2 paragraphs later it says it corrects roll center)

Thank God finally for that translation.

I wish someone could succinctly put this on the website or sticky this:
J's S1 Camber Joint v1:
-Blue anodize body
-does not correct or affect roll center
-increase negative camber range by 1 degree

J's S1 Camber Joint v2:
-Red anodize body
-does correct roll center
-increase negative camber range by 1 degree
[/quote]

 

I agree. I mentioned this to GoTuning, particularly the bit in their description that completely contradicts itself. The amount of misinformation out there is pretty infuriating. I did a lot of research on the S1 before getting it, knowing that I wasn't necessarily interested in maxing out my caster and would lower my car by 1" and would want around -3 front camber, I went with the S1. For those looking to max out caster the S2 is the way to go it seems.

I highly recommend emailing Evasive and GoTuning to see if they will revise their descriptions.

The v2 has 9mm of correction.

 

I read through this thread and even though it was hinted at, no one has told the OP to remove the gold RCA spacer to gain some camber back. So let me be the one to do so.

The more you lower the outside end of the control arm, the further inwards you will move it. If you're having trouble visualizing this, imagine detaching the ball joint and letting the LCA pivot all the way down to exaggerate the difference.

 

Believe me I had that thought but, by removing the spacer that means that my lower arms wouldn't be on a straight line and the lower arms will always be on ''tension''. Yes you are correct by removing the plate for sure I will gain, lets say, another 0,5degree of camber. Also by removing the plate I will loose some of my shock travel and I don't want that. By doing all these that means I will ''upset'' all around the car's geometry.

As I said I agree with you (and most of the guys in here I believe) but the main thing (as a conclusion of this story) is that YOU CANNOT see the ''numbers'' that most of the companies estimates with the s1 rca's. So the only way to get 3,5camber with 6+ caster and to have ''correct'' geometry on your lower arms (depending on the drop ALWAYS) is installing the s2 rca's.

Not to be misunderstand guys but, all the above concussions were made FOR MY CAR, some of you guys I believe you may not agree with me, but as I see it on my car with my little knowledge the s1 don't work FOR MY CRITERIA ON MY CAR.

 

Curious if any one can elaborate as to the effects of running the version 2 s1 camber joints with 9mm of roll center adjustment built in on a stock suspension cr.

I know if the car is too lowered it shifts the roll center moment past the center line of the car, which is why roll center adjustment is crucial to fixing geometry. Since my car is stock height im guessing this would have the inverse effect of having the roll center moment before the centerline of the car.

If it does have a deleterious effect, is it still worth it for the minimal <1 degree of negative camber gain?

Summarizing, on a stock cr I have gained negative camber at the cost of increasing ride height, increasing center of gravity and shifting roll center.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using Tapatalk