J'S front roll centre adjusters with camber plates
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Joined: May 2007
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From: socal
I have the original S1, but I am running custom valved TEIN SRCs. I'm able to get -3.4 degrees of camber front and rear (no aftermarket parts in the rear). After 5 years of use, I still don't see the need to change out the ball joints. I have an extra set laying around in case I need to replace them.
When I was on stock CR suspension, I could get front camber to max out at -3.3, however, caster was around mid to high 5.x.
When I was on stock CR suspension, I could get front camber to max out at -3.3, however, caster was around mid to high 5.x.
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by shind3' timestamp='1400617197' post='23168404
I read through this thread and even though it was hinted at, no one has told the OP to remove the gold RCA spacer to gain some camber back. So let me be the one to do so.
The more you lower the outside end of the control arm, the further inwards you will move it. If you're having trouble visualizing this, imagine detaching the ball joint and letting the LCA pivot all the way down to exaggerate the difference.
The more you lower the outside end of the control arm, the further inwards you will move it. If you're having trouble visualizing this, imagine detaching the ball joint and letting the LCA pivot all the way down to exaggerate the difference.
The above pic is of my car after installing roll center adjuster lower ball joints. The bottom of the lower arm is weighted on the jack as if a wheel is installed. Do you really think you're going to gain enough negative camber by raising the lower arm 1/4" to make removal worthwhile?
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From: socal
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Mt. ________
In the version 2 the balljoint is deeper in the housing itself, which is what is giving the 9mm of correction. I am not sure where you think you could trim away 9mm of material and still have the joint be strong enough. You can't trim away the part of the housing where the joint is mounted (which is what provides the correction) because the joint would no longer mount into the housing correctly. You could trim away from the flat part of the housing, but it will dramatically weaken the housing and probably wouldn't be very safe.
Joined: Jul 2012
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Originally Posted by gptoyz' timestamp='1400773053' post='23171250
I have seen both.
If memory serves me correct, the ver1 the balljoint is flush with the bottom of the aluminum housing
In ver2 the balljoint is deeper than the aluminum housing
That's why I I believe some of the body can be machined out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If memory serves me correct, the ver1 the balljoint is flush with the bottom of the aluminum housing
In ver2 the balljoint is deeper than the aluminum housing
That's why I I believe some of the body can be machined out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In the version 2 the balljoint is deeper in the housing itself, which is what is giving the 9mm of correction. I am not sure where you think you could trim away 9mm of material and still have the joint be strong enough. You can't trim away the part of the housing where the joint is mounted (which is what provides the correction) because the joint would no longer mount into the housing correctly. You could trim away from the flat part of the housing, but it will dramatically weaken the housing and probably wouldn't be very safe.
good point andrew! damn I have been so frustrated with these damn balljoints that it's starting to cloud my judgement
op, ASSuming the J's description is accurate about the roll center adjustment to correct for 40mm of ride height reduction, your ride height reduction of 1" is well within the boundaries of the build in roll center correction of the J's S1 Version 2. In fact, it is good up to 1.65" of ride height reduction. You should definitely take out the roll center spacer, which should definitely get you some more camber.
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1400706891' post='23170123
[quote name='shind3' timestamp='1400617197' post='23168404']
I read through this thread and even though it was hinted at, no one has told the OP to remove the gold RCA spacer to gain some camber back. So let me be the one to do so.
The more you lower the outside end of the control arm, the further inwards you will move it. If you're having trouble visualizing this, imagine detaching the ball joint and letting the LCA pivot all the way down to exaggerate the difference.
I read through this thread and even though it was hinted at, no one has told the OP to remove the gold RCA spacer to gain some camber back. So let me be the one to do so.
The more you lower the outside end of the control arm, the further inwards you will move it. If you're having trouble visualizing this, imagine detaching the ball joint and letting the LCA pivot all the way down to exaggerate the difference.
The above pic is of my car after installing roll center adjuster lower ball joints. The bottom of the lower arm is weighted on the jack as if a wheel is installed. Do you really think you're going to gain enough negative camber by raising the lower arm 1/4" to make removal worthwhile?
[/quote]
So I got a chance to revist this and do some math. Didn't have all the measurements so made some guesses. Assumed the rear LCA is 300mm long and at a 15 degree angle with the car on the ground while the rear upright is 250mm in height. See the attached picture for the math. But basically, removing a 10mm RCA spacer shifts the lower outer balljoint 2.5mm outwards which translates to an extra -0.6 degrees of negative camber if we assume a -2.0 initial negative camber.
If someone can get me more accurate measurements, I can run the numbers again and get a more correct answer. But I thought this exercise was enough to show how a small change can make a big difference...
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Joined: Nov 2005
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ok guys, round 2!!!
I just got these on my hands
Don't ask me why the nut and the pin is all in black, my s1's where silver!!! it seems in j's they have a lot of spare time and they play with colours, anw.
As you can see in this pic the pin is on a slight angle. I notice also tha you cannot move the pin AT ALL by hand, as I did (and you can see it on page 2) with the OEM ones.
Last, what is this safety for???? (black o ring with 2 holes), I want to add also A VERY SILLY/STUPID question, sorry but I have to do it. Do I have to remove that black safety before I install it on the car????
I just got these on my hands
Don't ask me why the nut and the pin is all in black, my s1's where silver!!! it seems in j's they have a lot of spare time and they play with colours, anw.
As you can see in this pic the pin is on a slight angle. I notice also tha you cannot move the pin AT ALL by hand, as I did (and you can see it on page 2) with the OEM ones.
Last, what is this safety for???? (black o ring with 2 holes), I want to add also A VERY SILLY/STUPID question, sorry but I have to do it. Do I have to remove that black safety before I install it on the car????
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From: Pittsburgh
Also, new ball joints are very tight and will easily break-in in a few miles of use. Nothing to worry about here.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
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Originally Posted by s2k_cy' timestamp='1401354939' post='23180227
Last, what is this safety for???? (black o ring with 2 holes), I want to add also A VERY SILLY/STUPID question, sorry but I have to do it. Do I have to remove that black safety before I install it on the car????
Also, new ball joints are very tight and will easily break-in in a few miles of use. Nothing to worry about here.
