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J's S2 Camber Joint Redesign

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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 05:27 AM
  #11  
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Lets say there were no other options available.. Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 05:44 AM
  #12  
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What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.

Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?
The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down:


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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 06:32 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ndogg
If hardrace is acceptable to you then just get the megan one. Megan == Hardrace. Same factory different box.

I got mine from this guy on eBay: http://bit.ly/WSE32T

I low balled him and he countered at $200
Thanks! They're even the same part number as Hardrace.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 06:38 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by robrob
What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.
According to the Megan site an additional 2-3 degrees negative camber up to -3.5 degrees.

http://www.meganracing.com/product_d...=1265&catid=25
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by robrob
What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.

Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?
The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down:


It's not the base thickness resultant strength that would be the issue. Most likely it's the same material that these are milled from, and so if they are modified to the previous design's geometry, they will have the same strength. Your statement implies that the original design is not strong enough. Is that what you meant to say, or do you know something about stress design that others who use them successfully don't?

I think the bigger issue will be determining what they have done to locate the ball joint and whether it will allow modification. Is it retained with a circlip? Is it pressed only? or is it taller and bottoms out at this new depth? all of which could keep you from successfully returning the ball joint stack height to stock dimensions.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 08:13 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mLeach
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1359643469' post='22304932
What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.

Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?
The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down:


It's not the base thickness resultant strength that would be the issue. Most likely it's the same material that these are milled from, and so if they are modified to the previous design's geometry, they will have the same strength. Your statement implies that the original design is not strong enough. Is that what you meant to say, or do you know something about stress design that others who use them successfully don't?

I think the bigger issue will be determining what they have done to locate the ball joint and whether it will allow modification. Is it retained with a circlip? Is it pressed only? or is it taller and bottoms out at this new depth? all of which could keep you from successfully returning the ball joint stack height to stock dimensions.
That's right, except with the new design they didn't just add material to the bottom, they extended the ball joint further up(down on the car). The base is the same thickness as the old S2 and factory so you reuse the factory bolts.
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:03 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by odb812
Originally Posted by mLeach' timestamp='1359650596' post='22305237
[quote name='robrob' timestamp='1359643469' post='22304932']
What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.

Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?
The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down:


It's not the base thickness resultant strength that would be the issue. Most likely it's the same material that these are milled from, and so if they are modified to the previous design's geometry, they will have the same strength. Your statement implies that the original design is not strong enough. Is that what you meant to say, or do you know something about stress design that others who use them successfully don't?

I think the bigger issue will be determining what they have done to locate the ball joint and whether it will allow modification. Is it retained with a circlip? Is it pressed only? or is it taller and bottoms out at this new depth? all of which could keep you from successfully returning the ball joint stack height to stock dimensions.
That's right, except with the new design they didn't just add material to the bottom, they extended the ball joint further up(down on the car). The base is the same thickness as the old S2 and factory so you reuse the factory bolts.
[/quote]

Foot meet mouth. That's a bummer.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:35 PM
  #18  
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Sounds like J's just redesigned themselves out of future STR business then... Is Hardrace/Megan the only other source for new offset joints that don't mess with roll center now? I have the Hardrace units installed on my car. They do their job. My alignment guy couldn't get quite as much camber out of them as a CR he also aligns that runs the J's version... but that could be due to several other major differences between my setup and his.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 08:41 PM
  #19  
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I just bought some S2 joints in December. These look to be the redesigned ones?




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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #20  
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Looks like it. These are the older ones:



http://www.fullymodded.com/index.php...sh_1/albumid_7
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