J's S2 Camber Joint Redesign

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Feb 4, 2013 | 08:12 AM

#21

$//steve\\'s Avatar$

//steve\\

Joined: Sep 2006

Posts: 10,465

Likes: 52

From: ATL

but size wise they look the same height which means they are legal.

Feb 4, 2013 | 09:30 AM

#22

ddess

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 1,330

Likes: 17

From: Long Beach, Ca

I see the new ones being about 1" longer. The old style had a plate that extended them up IIRC 25mm. The new ones are about that much taller.

Feb 4, 2013 | 11:53 AM

#23

DrPcmd

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 60

Likes: 0

The ball joint itself looks like a replaceable part, why not pull the c-clip, press the old ball joint out, and replace with a new one?

Feb 5, 2013 | 03:03 AM

#24

robrob

Former Moderator

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 4,634

Likes: 28

From: West Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by mLeach

Quote:

Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1359643469' post='22304932

What's the max camber you can get with the Hard Race (Megan Racing) camber ball joint? They don't seem to specify that on the website.

Quote:

Could you just shave the base to remove the RCA?

The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down:

It's not the base thickness resultant strength that would be the issue. Most likely it's the same material that these are milled from, and so if they are modified to the previous design's geometry, they will have the same strength. Your statement implies that the original design is not strong enough. Is that what you meant to say, or do you know something about stress design that others who use them successfully don't?

I think the bigger issue will be determining what they have done to locate the ball joint and whether it will allow modification. Is it retained with a circlip? Is it pressed only? or is it taller and bottoms out at this new depth? all of which could keep you from successfully returning the ball joint stack height to stock dimensions.

What I meant to say was, "The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down." <---sarcasm. The roll center correction on these redesigned ball joints comes from the raised ball joint, not a thicker base. If the redesigned ball joints had a thicker base you could possibly shave the base to remove the roll center correction and make them legal. How did you deduce an implication of a weak original design from, "The base on these don't look thick enough to shave down?"

Feb 5, 2013 | 03:08 AM

#25

robrob

Former Moderator

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 4,634

Likes: 28

From: West Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrPcmd

The ball joint itself looks like a replaceable part, why not pull the c-clip, press the old ball joint out, and replace with a new one?

The ball joint is sitting in a higher base than the old J's design so a ball joint swap won't remove the roll center correction and make them legal.

Feb 5, 2013 | 06:17 AM

#26

DrPcmd

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 60

Likes: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by robrob

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrPcmd' timestamp='1360011212' post='22314010

The ball joint itself looks like a replaceable part, why not pull the c-clip, press the old ball joint out, and replace with a new one?

The ball joint is sitting in a higher base than the old J's design so a ball joint swap won't remove the roll center correction and make them legal.

I know that, what I'm saying is if you already have the original design and need replacement, why not just replace the joint itself and still have the original base that does not correct roll center.

Feb 5, 2013 | 12:30 PM

#27

robrob

Former Moderator

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 4,634

Likes: 28

From: West Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrPcmd

Quote:

Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1360066091' post='22315295

[quote name='DrPcmd' timestamp='1360011212' post='22314010']
The ball joint itself looks like a replaceable part, why not pull the c-clip, press the old ball joint out, and replace with a new one?

The ball joint is sitting in a higher base than the old J's design so a ball joint swap won't remove the roll center correction and make them legal.

I know that, what I'm saying is if you already have the original design and need replacement, why not just replace the joint itself and still have the original base that does not correct roll center.
[/quote]

Sorry, I missed the part about replacement.

Feb 8, 2013 | 10:55 AM

#28

Andrew Wojteczko

Registered User

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 760

Likes: 0

Having some difficulty getting a clear answer on this from J's.
Can anyone confirm what their camber change was after installing S1 and after installing an S2? How much negative camber did you actually gain? with keeping your factory adjusters in the same position as before.
I'm looking to add 2 more degrees negative until I get around to building my own lower arms. Not sure if need S1 or S2, would prefer to use S1 if it will do the trick to help keep scrub in check.

Thanks!

Andrew