wow the spoon part is twice the price? hmm from his description it seems all the new joints affect the roll center. and the L1 kit comes with the plates as opposed to having to buy the plates if you have the new S1.

 

Here is my noob in suspension coming out.......
Why exactly do we not want the roll center adjustment?? I always thought that feature was something we wanted......or is that only for super slammed non functional cars?

 

thats specifically for STR class in SCCA autocross. Roll center adjustment is forbidden

 

It is possible the photos and the description on the GoTuning site are old but,

The description on the site for the L1/L2 says: "The newly designed camber joint includes roll center adjuster plates for use with or without roll center adjustment..
Roll center can also be corrected for lowered vehicles by installing the included roll center adjustment plate." So it seems like people limited by certain regulations could still use the L1/L2 version without the roll center plates.

The new S1 (red) is the one I am interested as I do want roll center adjustment. The L1/L2 is quite a bit more expensive, but still cheaper than the Spoon joints.

I could be reading the descriptions wrong though, so maybe the new L1/L2 is just the new S1/S2 with additional plates and the descriptions need to be updated?

 

learn something new everyday!

 

ok noob question. * puts flame suit on * when i install the camber joint will it affect the caster alignment? i dont think it should but i could be wrong.

 

Sorry for bumping an older post. I was doing some digging around for other info and just wanted to say thanks for this post, it makes perfect sense to me now after getting and installing the latest S1 joint. It is quite easy to see the 9mm difference with the joint now offset deeper but the thickness of the mounting bracket the same, so longer bolts and plates aren't required and you get the roll center adjustment at a little less cost.

You guys should change the descriptions on your product pages to reflect this when you have the time. Including the amount of roll center adjustment that is included with each joint.

 

i am even more confused.
Can someone just tell me which ones i need to get -3.5(17x9.5 +40 with 255)

 

^Id get s2 but you could go L2 if you want the larger roll center adj plate. My guess is, the larger roll center is only helpful if your pretty low. And again just a guess, probably don't want to be that low unless your trying to max out your aero.

 

The GoTuning post clears it up a lot. But their product descriptions on their site are extremely confusing. Checkout the TL;DR below for a simple answer.

Basically there are just 2 joint designs now from J's. The S1 and S2 with the S2 offsetting the camber range about 1 more degree than the S1. Both have 9mm of roll center adjustment built-in. The L1 is a kit with S1 (the L2 is a kit with S2) joint with additional roll center plates and the longer bolts needed to accommodate them for more than 9mm of roll center correction for cars that are lowered more than 1".

It all comes down to your ride height really. As you go lower you are effectively shifting your camber range more negative. If you are lowered to about 330mm/13" (25mm/1" lower than stock) from wheel center to fender then I would say S2 and the built-in roll center correction should be fine. If the car is in the 12.5" ride height range or lower then you may only need the offset that the S1 joint provides, but will want the L1 kit which will allow you to correct the roll center the appropriate amount. If you are super low then the S2 joint (and L2 kit) might push your minimum negative camber past -3.5.

TL;DR: Unless your car is slammed get the S2 for -3.5 and appropriate roll center correction.

For 2-3 degree range and appropriate roll center correction for around 330mm/13" or higher ride height get the S1.
For 3-5 degree range and appropriate roll center correction for around 330mm/13" or higher ride height get the S2.

For 2-3 degree range and ride height around 320mm/12.6" or lower get the L1 kit and use the appropriate RCA plates to account for your ride height.
For 3-5 degree range and ride height around 320mm/12.6" or lower get the L2 kit and use the appropriate RCA plates to account for your ride height.

Keeping in mind there will be variances in camber range from car to car depending on ride height and other factors. That is a very basic guide. And also assumes J's Racing has correctly measured roll center correction. Which by my basic understanding and measurements they have.

If you don't want or can't use RCA correction (you should) then find a different camber joint. And if you get a J's front joint with RCA built-in, you should also get the appropriate rear RCA so the roll axis is also kept in check.