Knocking Comptech Bar
Mine is making more noise now than when I started the thread. Sounds more like the endlink but I can't be sure. I'm pulling the bar off tonight to check it's condition and lube it up.
Can I pick up another bolt locally or do I need to contact Comptech directly?
Thanks!
Can I pick up another bolt locally or do I need to contact Comptech directly?
Thanks!
Jason,
Looked at the bar again tonight. I don't have a significant difference in play between the 1st and 5th holes with the bolt going through. However, off the car the first bolt (in position 5) is easy to put through, and the second bolt (in position 1) requires some pounding (which is just great on the bolt threads). I still don't think there is enough play anwhere to cause an audible "clunk".
Any creaking noises are probably all at the bushings if they aren't lubed well, or the teflon tape is worn out. In the past, clunking noises from a swaybar almost always were due to either loose endlink nuts or to using heim joints (inherently noisy).
Mack, I got more bolts from Comptech at about $5/each. I do know that rzrsedg may have found an alternate source, you could PM him.
BTW, anyone with the Comptech bar should check the adjustment bolt periodically. I've heard of some having the nut come loose and lose the bolt entirely. Your only roll resistance at that point would be from any friction between the two bars (not much!).
-Andy
Looked at the bar again tonight. I don't have a significant difference in play between the 1st and 5th holes with the bolt going through. However, off the car the first bolt (in position 5) is easy to put through, and the second bolt (in position 1) requires some pounding (which is just great on the bolt threads). I still don't think there is enough play anwhere to cause an audible "clunk".
Any creaking noises are probably all at the bushings if they aren't lubed well, or the teflon tape is worn out. In the past, clunking noises from a swaybar almost always were due to either loose endlink nuts or to using heim joints (inherently noisy).
Mack, I got more bolts from Comptech at about $5/each. I do know that rzrsedg may have found an alternate source, you could PM him.
BTW, anyone with the Comptech bar should check the adjustment bolt periodically. I've heard of some having the nut come loose and lose the bolt entirely. Your only roll resistance at that point would be from any friction between the two bars (not much!).
-Andy
Hehe, so it may have been my (stock) endlinks making the clunk. They seemed tight upon removal but I did skip the "preload the suspension before tightening" step...
For whatever reason my adjuster bolts all inserted or removed quite easily, even with other bolts in other holes. Chock it up to manufacturing variance, I suppose. I got my second bolt and nut from Home Depot, but not everyone may want to trust HD's hardware. So far, so good.
In retrospect you're probably right about the cracked weld causing the wiggle. I never used the bar with a bolt in any hole but #5 and later #1 also, so 2,3, and 4 never developed any cracks. That could explain why they seemed tighter to me. But then again none of my measurements were very scientific or recorded anywhere other than my foggy memory...

For whatever reason my adjuster bolts all inserted or removed quite easily, even with other bolts in other holes. Chock it up to manufacturing variance, I suppose. I got my second bolt and nut from Home Depot, but not everyone may want to trust HD's hardware. So far, so good.
In retrospect you're probably right about the cracked weld causing the wiggle. I never used the bar with a bolt in any hole but #5 and later #1 also, so 2,3, and 4 never developed any cracks. That could explain why they seemed tighter to me. But then again none of my measurements were very scientific or recorded anywhere other than my foggy memory...

Update-
Prior to this weekends AutoX I removed and reinstalled the bar. I replaced both endlinks although old ones looked fine. Pulled the bars apart. They are two seperate pieces as described
(should have taken some pics). Lubed them both good and reinstalled with new teflon tape on the bushings.......Added a second bolt as recommended......
and guess what?
Not a peep out of it since...........
Thanks for all the input!
Prior to this weekends AutoX I removed and reinstalled the bar. I replaced both endlinks although old ones looked fine. Pulled the bars apart. They are two seperate pieces as described
(should have taken some pics). Lubed them both good and reinstalled with new teflon tape on the bushings.......Added a second bolt as recommended......and guess what?
Not a peep out of it since...........
Thanks for all the input!
Got Knock. I'd like to get rid of it.
I'm going to pull my bar off and put more teflon tape on where it meets the bushings, I only went around once or twice when I put the bar on. (How much tape did you use?)
When you guys talk about putting lube on, where exactly are you putting it and what type of lube are you using.
Any help, much appreciated.
-- Tom
I'm going to pull my bar off and put more teflon tape on where it meets the bushings, I only went around once or twice when I put the bar on. (How much tape did you use?)
When you guys talk about putting lube on, where exactly are you putting it and what type of lube are you using.
Any help, much appreciated.
-- Tom
Tom-
I wrapped the bar several (5-6) times with the tape and ran it out wider than the place it makes contact with the bushing,
I pulled the bars apart and lubed the inner bar with I think bearing grease....it was the only thing I had on hand. Once you get it lubed up slide it back it........um well that didn't come out right but you get the idea......
I'm also running two bolts in mine. I think that helps to eliminate some of the binding of the two bars against each other.
Hope that helps......it took care of mine.
I wrapped the bar several (5-6) times with the tape and ran it out wider than the place it makes contact with the bushing,
I pulled the bars apart and lubed the inner bar with I think bearing grease....it was the only thing I had on hand. Once you get it lubed up slide it back it........um well that didn't come out right but you get the idea......

I'm also running two bolts in mine. I think that helps to eliminate some of the binding of the two bars against each other.
Hope that helps......it took care of mine.
I've given up. The noise I hear is defintely due to binding of the bushings and not the bar clunking the inner bar against the bolts or outer bar. The noise I can live with since it's only occasional and isn't worth the effort to disassemble, lube and reassemble. maybe if there was a grease fitting...
I think I may have a solution for the sqeaking/clunking. If your inner bar is making noise against the outter bar you might try putting the tape around the inner bar between position 4 and 5 to act as sort of a bearing between them. To keep the bushings from squeaking, I lubed the bushings with silicone (no tape though) and actually sealed the bushing using duct tape after everything was together. Once the bar is installed it doesn't actually have to twist a whole lot and I placed the duct tape on with some slope between the bushing mount and the bar to allow for some bar twist. The duct tape sounds cheesy but it keeps dirt out of the bushing, and my bar nevers makes any sounds. You may want to replace the duct tape once in a while but at least you won't have to take the bar off.
Just resurrecting this thread with a word of advice. If you've been running the Comptech adjustable bar at a significant number of events and driving the car on the street, I highly recommend that you pull the bar off and do a complete visual inspection at your earliest convenience. I'd focus your attention on whatever hole you've been running the adjustment pin on, and look at the condition of the welds on the inner bar/stiffener.
-Andy
-Andy




