Kumho Tires
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i think that i'm ready to buy some kumhos. i'm going with the V700 tires.
Question: what is the difference between the "full thread" and the "heat cycled" tires. looks like the heat cycled cost a little more than the full thread tires. also what is the ideal size for fronts and backs?
any suggestions from the seasoned autox guys/gals?
Question: what is the difference between the "full thread" and the "heat cycled" tires. looks like the heat cycled cost a little more than the full thread tires. also what is the ideal size for fronts and backs?
any suggestions from the seasoned autox guys/gals?
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,182
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From: Knoxville
C-
Here is a link to my purchase process. I'm a newbie at this to so someone might want to clarify my comments here if i'm a bit of.
http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...p?threadid=9321
I opted for the Kumhos. 245's in the rear 225's in the front.
Heat cycling is a process by which they heat the tire up on a machine to "break it in" The rubber has more grip after it has been heated and cooled. That way you have max grip from the tire your first time out. I bought mine heat cycled.
You can also buy them Shaved. This reduces the amount of grooves in the tire and puts more rubber on the road but it also reduces the life of the tire. I bought mine with full tread.
Hope this helps!
Here is a link to my purchase process. I'm a newbie at this to so someone might want to clarify my comments here if i'm a bit of.
http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...p?threadid=9321
I opted for the Kumhos. 245's in the rear 225's in the front.
Heat cycling is a process by which they heat the tire up on a machine to "break it in" The rubber has more grip after it has been heated and cooled. That way you have max grip from the tire your first time out. I bought mine heat cycled.
You can also buy them Shaved. This reduces the amount of grooves in the tire and puts more rubber on the road but it also reduces the life of the tire. I bought mine with full tread.
Hope this helps!
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 107
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From: SoCal
Heat cycling doesn't make the tire stickier. According to Tirerack, heat cycling makes the tire more durable and perform more consistently as it wears.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/heat.htm
The alternative to paying Tirerack for heat cycling is to run the new tires for at least a 100 continuous miles at highway speeds and then let them cool.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/heat.htm
The alternative to paying Tirerack for heat cycling is to run the new tires for at least a 100 continuous miles at highway speeds and then let them cool.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 819
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From: Seattle, WA
you do NOT need to drive for 100 continuous miles to heat cycle Kumhos!
just get them good and hot, like with multiple on and off ramps to freeways. then take them off and let them sit for at least 24-48 hours before using them. Also, one autocross event will be a good heat cycling!
we personally never get heat cycled tires. We get shaved 225 & 245's, and the first time they get used is typically at a local event, breaking them in for a national event. Heck, we ran new rears in San Diego for the Tour, and for the second day of the El Toro Pro we had new rears. Not a big deal, as long as you realize your first run may be a bit slick!
just get them good and hot, like with multiple on and off ramps to freeways. then take them off and let them sit for at least 24-48 hours before using them. Also, one autocross event will be a good heat cycling!
we personally never get heat cycled tires. We get shaved 225 & 245's, and the first time they get used is typically at a local event, breaking them in for a national event. Heck, we ran new rears in San Diego for the Tour, and for the second day of the El Toro Pro we had new rears. Not a big deal, as long as you realize your first run may be a bit slick!
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 8,601
Likes: 1
From: La Habra
As stated above, heat cycling is supposed to make the rubber last longer. But not strictly for physical wear, mostly for grip. If you race enough you'll learn more than you want to know about tires going "off" (losing grip before wearing).
Every high performance street tire I've tried lost grip before physically wearing too much.
Some tires have the opposite reputation, for example the OEM Potenza's on ITR's get better (for Auto-X) as they wear. I know guys that run those ITR tires down to the cord and cry when they have to put new ones on. My last set of Dunlop SP8000's had tons of meat left but they were definitely "off" (unless someone's spiking my cola at the races...)
Every high performance street tire I've tried lost grip before physically wearing too much.
Some tires have the opposite reputation, for example the OEM Potenza's on ITR's get better (for Auto-X) as they wear. I know guys that run those ITR tires down to the cord and cry when they have to put new ones on. My last set of Dunlop SP8000's had tons of meat left but they were definitely "off" (unless someone's spiking my cola at the races...)
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