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Lost Clutch at Autocross

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Old 07-10-2002, 11:59 AM
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Default Lost Clutch at Autocross

This past Sunday the clutch went out on my 2002 S2000. Temps were close to 100 degrees and the start was pretty straight. I was the only driver and this was my third run.

As I launched on the asphalt the car hooked and the rpms spun up to redline with no vehicle movement. I tried shifting to second but got the same results. All I got was smoke and that clutch burn stench.

Luckily, I trailered the car and was able to get home. Once the clutch cooled off I could move the car but I have major slippage and that horrendous smell.

I find it hard to believe the clutch let go at 2,900 miles. My research showed that Honda improved the durability of the clutch for 2002 - based on my experience this is not the case.

After a brief conversation the Honda dealer has agreed to replace the clutch. However I am worried that this car will not be reliable in the long run.

Anyone have similar experiences with an '02?

Thanks,
Old 07-10-2002, 12:43 PM
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The only time I ever had that level of clutch slippage, it was my own fault. I was on ribbed concrete (instead of blacktop, etc.). Did not want to launch at 7k (never do that for fear of wrecking drive train), so tried to do a weak-sister imitation of it. "Feathered" clutch at maybe 5k. Car stayed stock still and I filled the cabin with stink. I instantly got off the gas and punched clutch. Waited maybe a minute or two and everything was OK, but I'm sure that there was some glaze on the disk.

I'd say that in order to get a "fast" launch w/o burning clutch and w/o a 7k drop, you rev to as high as you have the courage and then let out the clutch pedal with enthusiasm. Not a real "drop", but pretty damned fast. I've never had a problem doing it that way and normally rev to maybe 5 or 6k. Of course, I'll never equal a 7k drop launch doing it that way either. Almost certain to bog, at least to some extent using that method.

As I understand it from the guys here who know what they are doing (I'm not one of them) the whole point of a 7k drop is to avoid bogging. You get the wheels spinning just enough to prevent bog and then tires catch. Just not enough low-end grunt to do it any other way. But then, ours is not a drag car, as so many have pointed out.
Old 07-10-2002, 12:51 PM
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my plan to strengthen the car::

-replace the pressure plate w/ one with more hold.
-replace the halfshafts with Spoon built ones
-have the LSD brackets reinforced
-replace the flywheel.

ill start this project with the halfshafts and work my way up to the pressure plate and flywheel
Old 07-10-2002, 12:57 PM
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Originally posted by SECRET AP1
my plan to strengthen the car::

-replace the pressure plate w/ one with more hold.
-replace the halfshafts with Spoon built ones
-have the LSD brackets reinforced
-replace the flywheel.

ill start this project with the halfshafts and work my way up to the pressure plate and flywheel
Sounds like that is the only sensible way to go if you really want fast launches and don't want to snap an axle, etc.

I've read on this board that some clutch slippage is intended by Honda to prevent major shock to the tranny, differential, etc. So, if you get a substantially better gripping clutch without beefing up the rest of the drive train, you defeat the intended slippage and endanger the drive train.

Do wonder, though, why you want a diff. flywheel? I understand the supposed benefit of a lighter flywheel, but I don't see how a new flywheel will affect the durability of anything behind it. Sure would appreciate it if you'd educate me on that.
Old 07-10-2002, 12:58 PM
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Before everyone gets on the bandwagon of "Hey, don't you know how to launch an S2K, TJ Stupid?", I'll say from observation that Derek has plenty of experience to know what he is doing. I was behind him for all his previous launches (it was actually his 4th when the clutch went) and hadn't noticed anything unusual. He either spun the tires off the line or bogged a bit when everything hooked up, with no outward evidence of slipping the clutch. There was enough time between runs that I would have thought there would have been any question of quickly repeated starts causing a problem.

So, apparently, his 2002 clutch just gave up for no obvious reason. Hopefully a post mortem will shed some light on the why. My 2000 with the original clutch didn't have any trouble the same day, and Derek even took his last runs in my car with no incident. Back to the original question, has anyone else with a 2002 had the same problem?

-Andy
Old 07-10-2002, 01:56 PM
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I roasted my original ('01) clutch a few times at the dragstrip. In a way I was thankful that it was the clutch that gave and not the axles or diff.

Is it possible the disc itself is just extremely glazed? After some time babying it, my clutch always returned to normal. Eventually I got the '02 clutch, and haven't had any problems with it, though I haven't been to the 'strip with it yet. I feel it does grab better than the original.

See y'all at Wendover...
Old 07-10-2002, 02:11 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by s2k2fast4me
[B]So, apparently, his 2002 clutch just gave up for no obvious reason.
Old 07-11-2002, 05:43 PM
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Andy I think you saw a certain co-driver of mine do this. Right?

She was attempting a 6k launch at an AAS event (as practice for the Atwater pro). Big clutch slip to redline with lots of smoke and no movement. Being the competitor that she is she put the back in, grabbed second, and bogged away...

We attributed it to operator error. She defended herself with vigor - but finally admitted that she maybe didn't pop the clutch fast enough. Of course now that Derek has done it - she blames the car.

Once the clutch cooled off a bit it seemed fine.

-r
Old 07-11-2002, 07:47 PM
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btw, the clutch FRICTION disc is very unlikely the problem, in fact it is probably fantastic from a materials approach and appropriate
engineering job by honda. its the pressure plate clamping force that is probably insufficient, but chosen for light street car duty.
upgrading the pressure plate is the solution, increasing dics coefficient of friction is wrong solution for this car.
Old 07-12-2002, 08:23 AM
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Originally posted by sfphinkterMC
btw, the clutch FRICTION disc is very unlikely the problem, in fact it is probably fantastic from a materials approach and appropriate
engineering job by honda. its the pressure plate clamping force that is probably insufficient, but chosen for light street car duty.
upgrading the pressure plate is the solution, increasing dics coefficient of friction is wrong solution for this car.
IMO neither the friction material or clamping force are appropriate for regular 9K rpm shifts. The friction material is an organic compound that is designed for smooth engagement.. basically cardboard and glue that smell bad when it slipped. The clamping force it a touch on the light side, so the combination is not solid or especially long lasting when the car is driven hard. I chose a Kevlar friction disk and upgraded PP (Star) that may be somewhat less smooth (I am fine with it) but will grip and last.


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