Negative Camber
Originally Posted by pongydoo,Oct 12 2007, 04:24 PM
Stock 2000, I am at -2.1 up front and which isn't quite max out yet and running -2.4 in the rear.
I'm more curious(and have been) as to the balance and trade-off between braking efficiency(or loss thereof) and increased cornering ability. Some of the guys in here are running -4* or maybe more up front.
The goal shouldn't be to just look at one number, but to see what fits best with all adjustments, track, and driving style/preference.
The goal shouldn't be to just look at one number, but to see what fits best with all adjustments, track, and driving style/preference.
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Oct 12 2007, 02:25 PM
I'm more curious(and have been) as to the balance and trade-off between braking efficiency(or loss thereof) and increased cornering ability. Some of the guys in here are running -4* or maybe more up front.
The goal shouldn't be to just look at one number, but to see what fits best with all adjustments, track, and driving style/preference.
The goal shouldn't be to just look at one number, but to see what fits best with all adjustments, track, and driving style/preference.
I have -2.25 front and -2.75 rear and the wear is even between front and rear, they both have more wear on the outter 2/3 of the tire.
if you have more wear on the outer 2/3rds of the tires I would say you need more camber. you have to think about the tire in a corner. Having pictures of you in a turn helps too. If you look at some of my pics you can see the tire is almost flat in the turn where my inside tire is barely touching. If you look at Ry's pics he has the same thing and in some turns his inside tire is not even on the ground.
I am running 4.0 deg in front and about 3 deg in rear.
toe is 0
caster was max don't remember exact.
to get the camber in front I went with the SPC ball joints....
If the joints fail I will go with a offset bushing due to class rules.
if I was open I would get a TC upper control arm setup.
I dont know if he is really selling them to street/track cars but my car is track only.
I hope that all made sense and helps.
you are going to have to change your setup to get the camber you need in front bottom line.
I am running 4.0 deg in front and about 3 deg in rear.
toe is 0
caster was max don't remember exact.
to get the camber in front I went with the SPC ball joints....
If the joints fail I will go with a offset bushing due to class rules.
if I was open I would get a TC upper control arm setup.
I dont know if he is really selling them to street/track cars but my car is track only.
I hope that all made sense and helps.
you are going to have to change your setup to get the camber you need in front bottom line.
Car weight probably also factors into the equation, no? Crash, how heavy is your car?
I have nothing to base my opinion on(because I have not read enough or not in the right places), but I'm guessing the lighter the car, the less spring one would need. In your case, you have more total spring than weight of the car plus sways. With all the rigidity, do you ever think you might want some compliance?
I have nothing to base my opinion on(because I have not read enough or not in the right places), but I'm guessing the lighter the car, the less spring one would need. In your case, you have more total spring than weight of the car plus sways. With all the rigidity, do you ever think you might want some compliance?
Rylan, heavier spring in the rear because of the wing as crash alluded to? And damn, that seems like a lot of spring for such a light car. You don't run aftermarket swaybars, do you?








