i have no aero and a 235/255 tire set up. i run 7 clicks from full stiff front/rear and the car feels good to me. what setting do you guys run? can i go to full stiff? i read somewhere that you shouldnt go past 5 to full stiff? is this true ? thanks

 

what you need to do is buy remote adjusters controlled via dash board analog or touch screen and have a separate setting for each individual turn at your local track , thats the right way to do it

 

lol

To the OP, keep in mind that all of the below and then some I am probably leaving out play into shock settings
-Tires
-Surface
-Conditions
-Driving Style
-Rest of the car setup
-Track/course being driven on

So take any recommendations with a grain of salt. But you can generally get some idea of what fast people are running (assuming you know who the fast people are) and then start from there.

I have no idea what you can run with the shocks you have, but am speaking in more general terms. Even which spring rates work can vary significantly from person to person and setup to setup.

If you have something that feels pretty good, what I recommend is to go out and make big changes and see how that feels. Do not adjust 1 click for example. When starting with new dampers I have found the following to work:

1) Start full soft on everything and drive the car on track/course
2) Start ramping up compression (if double adjustable) until the car becomes skittish over rough surfaces or under very fast inputs, then back it off some.
3) Start increasing rebound in decent sized increments (25% of the total adjustment) until you get it feeling ok.

Then once I am there, I make big changes to see how it affects everything. So, for example, go from middle to full stiff in the front. Drive the car. See what changed. Then back that down to full soft and see what that does. Be careful not to drive 10/10ths right away with a big chance to make sure you get a feel for how the car behaves so you dont end up backwards

Doing the above gives you a great feel for how each type of change affects the car, so when you need to change something (due to conditions, different track, different tires, etc) you already have a feeling of what will correct X, with X being the new thing you are trying to fix.

I know this is all general info and you wanted settings from owners of the same equipment, but thought it may help as you set up the car.

 

thanks for the info

 

When I was running 12/10 on my dfv's.

Front 3 clicks from full stiff
Rear 2 clicks from full stiff

I was squared 255's w/fsb

 

this was the quote i was referring to.

 

Bit of a tangent, but based on your spring rates and tire sizing, your car is going to push. It should work better with 255 wide on the front to match the rear.

 

i went from stock suspension/wheels to ohlins and was just afraid of the jump.

 

I run 10k/10k Ohlins with 255 square RS4 and stock MY01 bars and it's very neutral. That means the rear will come around under some conditions just as it will sometimes push. Learning how to manage that to my advantage is a big part of the fun of track driving for me.

I've settled on 6/6 clicks from full stiff for the track. I experimented stiffer but it didn't make me faster, just made the car more nervous. Perhaps 12k needs a few clicks stiffer? I don't know - you don't want to lose too much compliance which will result in less grip, not more.

You didn't say if you were asking about the track or street. If it's for the street, I can't imagine why you'd run that stiff. I soften to 18/18 when I leave the track which provides a ride not that much different from the stock suspension yet with better body control compliments of the Ohlins.

 

In regards to not setting too stiff, when you go beyond a certain point the shock response starts to become non-linear, meaning the amount of damping resistance might not be same in a repeated moment of movement direction and velocity, because whatever the shock was doing immediately PRIOR to that moment starts to have carryover effects. So going from rest to extension might not have the same damping as going directly from compression to extension even if the extension velocity is the same. Taken to the extreme, that starts to lead to unpredictable grip over bumps and comfort issues.