Looks good

 

I've used that exact one myself in the past. Makes oil changes a little more time consuming. Having to unplug and replug the temp sensor was not something I wanted to keep doing. I don't know long the plastic plug on the temp sensor can last, being unplugged and replugged.

 

Can you remove the adapter bolt with the sensor in it instead?

 

Don't forget the wire from the sensor is still intact, so that will twist with the adapter bolt. It'll be hard to unscrew the large adapter, as you can't really fit an open end wrench very easily. The oil pan opening around the drain bolt doesn't allow for full swing of an open wrench.

 

Up from the dead.

Has anyone measured oil temp from the drain plug area then switched to the lower AC compressor mount hole?

I relocated mine, ditched the OE cooler and also shielded/insulated the sensor bung with tubing to try and insulate erroneous readings from air flow cooling the sensor body.

With all these changes my temps are reading 10-20°C (50-68°F) higher now. I highly doubt that's just from removing the OE cooler. I'm thinking it's a lot more accurate now since it's reading the temp closer to the centre of the oil pool. I'm willing to guess reading from the drain plug area, being closer to the pan housing, is slightly affected by thermal cooling.

 

New sensor?

I've wondered if anyone has measured from the drain bolt vs the oil filter and what the delta was.

 

Nope, same DEFI sensor. Last one was threaded into the drain bolt with high temp epoxy as backup. This one tapped directly into the pan.

I think I have read a 5-10°C drop reading from a sandwich adapter.

 

Don't forget the wire from the sensor is still intact, so that will twist with the adapter bolt. It'll be hard to unscrew the large adapter, as you can't really fit an open end wrench very easily. The oil pan opening around the drain bolt doesn't allow for full swing of an open wrench.
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I used that same adapter someone linked above, and on my next oil change I'll cross that bridge (how to remove the drain bolt with the sensor). I think there are a few ways to make oil changes bearable with the adapter drain plug. For the wiring I'd just cut the wire a few inches off the sensor and use male/female spade connectors so you can unplug it. Then, you could use a line a wrench to tighten/loosen the drain plug. If the line wrench doesn't fit I'd try and cut a slit in a deep well socket and feed the sensor wires through the slit. Removing and reinstalling the sensor every time for an oil change would get old fast. I wouldn't mind sacrificing a socket.

 

That seems like a VERY significant jump just from moving the sensor from one spot in the pan to another. Are these higher temps you're talking about on the track? I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if a large cause for the rise in temps is ditching the stock oil cooler. What temps exactly are you seeing? As far as I know it's the standard to read oil temp at the bottom of the pan (look at aftermarket pans and they all have spots for oil temp probes low in the pan). I'd be very surprised if the sensor experienced any/much cooling by ambient air around the pan.

 

Max temp didn't change at the track.

It appears reading from the bottom of the pan without insulation around the sensor can give you false readings depending on the condition. I.E. lots of air flow driving on the hwy at a constant speed/rpm.