"Only oil temp facts"
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From: Melbourne
Is there anybody here with facts/proper track experience?
I've run an thermostat equipped oil cooler before on my S14 and never had it go above 110 degrees celsius even on a 40 degree day (Track obviously). But that said obviously because of the thermostat, doesn't go below 70 degrees which makes it suitable to run on street.
With the S2000 though, Honda like to open their thermostat at about 80 degrees for the coolant (I'm guessing) and turn on the thermo fans at 100 degrees... which is odd to me having owned Nissans all this time... on track though, the coolant temps NEVER exceeded 100 degrees (stock radiator which I thought was impressive) but oil temps rocketed to 132 degrees after about 5 laps of hard driving... a cool down lap brought this down about 5-7 degrees although it would have been better to keep the rhythm up!
So... I ask - is it worth getting an aftermarket oil cooler kit (Most likely GReddy) or should I be looking at thermo fan switches and alloy radiators for the time being?
A 100 degree relay seems a bit high to me still...?!
Any thoughts/genuine input?
I've run an thermostat equipped oil cooler before on my S14 and never had it go above 110 degrees celsius even on a 40 degree day (Track obviously). But that said obviously because of the thermostat, doesn't go below 70 degrees which makes it suitable to run on street.
With the S2000 though, Honda like to open their thermostat at about 80 degrees for the coolant (I'm guessing) and turn on the thermo fans at 100 degrees... which is odd to me having owned Nissans all this time... on track though, the coolant temps NEVER exceeded 100 degrees (stock radiator which I thought was impressive) but oil temps rocketed to 132 degrees after about 5 laps of hard driving... a cool down lap brought this down about 5-7 degrees although it would have been better to keep the rhythm up!
So... I ask - is it worth getting an aftermarket oil cooler kit (Most likely GReddy) or should I be looking at thermo fan switches and alloy radiators for the time being?
A 100 degree relay seems a bit high to me still...?!
Any thoughts/genuine input?
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Originally Posted by aozora,Jun 9 2009, 01:15 AM
Is there anybody here with facts/proper track experience?
I've run an thermostat equipped oil cooler before on my S14 and never had it go above 110 degrees celsius even on a 40 degree day (Track obviously). But that said obviously because of the thermostat, doesn't go below 70 degrees which makes it suitable to run on street.
With the S2000 though, Honda like to open their thermostat at about 80 degrees for the coolant (I'm guessing) and turn on the thermo fans at 100 degrees... which is odd to me having owned Nissans all this time... on track though, the coolant temps NEVER exceeded 100 degrees (stock radiator which I thought was impressive) but oil temps rocketed to 132 degrees after about 5 laps of hard driving... a cool down lap brought this down about 5-7 degrees although it would have been better to keep the rhythm up!
So... I ask - is it worth getting an aftermarket oil cooler kit (Most likely GReddy) or should I be looking at thermo fan switches and alloy radiators for the time being?
A 100 degree relay seems a bit high to me still...?!
Any thoughts/genuine input?
I've run an thermostat equipped oil cooler before on my S14 and never had it go above 110 degrees celsius even on a 40 degree day (Track obviously). But that said obviously because of the thermostat, doesn't go below 70 degrees which makes it suitable to run on street.
With the S2000 though, Honda like to open their thermostat at about 80 degrees for the coolant (I'm guessing) and turn on the thermo fans at 100 degrees... which is odd to me having owned Nissans all this time... on track though, the coolant temps NEVER exceeded 100 degrees (stock radiator which I thought was impressive) but oil temps rocketed to 132 degrees after about 5 laps of hard driving... a cool down lap brought this down about 5-7 degrees although it would have been better to keep the rhythm up!
So... I ask - is it worth getting an aftermarket oil cooler kit (Most likely GReddy) or should I be looking at thermo fan switches and alloy radiators for the time being?
A 100 degree relay seems a bit high to me still...?!
Any thoughts/genuine input?
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From: adelaide->bris-vegas
Originally Posted by c32b,Jun 9 2009, 05:00 PM
i am using the greddy/trust oil cooler and i run motul oil and recently tried ows.
despite driving in blistering hot conditions, (ambient approx 36+ deg C and track temps high 50+ deg C) never had oil temps > 105 deg C.
i have an aluminium koyo radiator but previously my oil temps pre-radiator mod were only maybe 2-3 deg or so higher.
what brand oil cooler are u using?
reason I ask this is because I have a friend who was recommended to get an oil cooler which looked massive which only cost 60% what I paid for mine. He had peak oil temps of 125deg on the track which i think might be a bit too high. I believe his efficiency of the cooler he had was much lower than mine.
personally i think the total heat soak will kill other parts prematurely so i want to rid my car of all the heat possible.
despite driving in blistering hot conditions, (ambient approx 36+ deg C and track temps high 50+ deg C) never had oil temps > 105 deg C.
i have an aluminium koyo radiator but previously my oil temps pre-radiator mod were only maybe 2-3 deg or so higher.
what brand oil cooler are u using?
reason I ask this is because I have a friend who was recommended to get an oil cooler which looked massive which only cost 60% what I paid for mine. He had peak oil temps of 125deg on the track which i think might be a bit too high. I believe his efficiency of the cooler he had was much lower than mine.
personally i think the total heat soak will kill other parts prematurely so i want to rid my car of all the heat possible.
changing stock radiator to a big 52mm PWR radiator didnt really do much to oil temp on the track as coolant temp sits on 87C
i'm measuring oil temp as it leaves the engine goin to the oil cooler maybe the reason why i see higher oil temps ?
our humidity level is very high >85% may also be a factor
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From: Peachtree City, GA
Per Honda Shop Manual for AP1:
STANDARD THERMOSTAT
Starts opening: 169 - 176F (76 - 80C)
Fully open: 194F (90C)
SWITCH
ON: 195 - 203F (91 - 95C)
OFF: 5 - 15F (3 - 8C) lower than the temperature when it qoes on
As to how this compares with the Nissan or any other auto, as they are all designed differently in terms of engine materials used, TS and fan switch settings, radiator size&c&c it would seem fruitless to compare other than as a standard to attain. I have always been told by engine builders that coolant temperature is a latent heat measure whereas oil is more correlated to immediate engine stress - oil is in direct contact with moving parts whereas the coolant is circulated seperated by a wall. As a result, a hard track session will have more impact on the oil temperature due to the moving parts being under more direct stress from higher RPMs than the coolant being seperated from the combustion process. My perspective has therefore always been to focus on controlling the heat of the oil thus making coolant temperature a secondary (yet important) concern for reliability in a properly running engine. Perhaps what we need here is some input by the Laskey guys(or other generally accepted quality engine builder for the F20/22C)?
As regards the efficiency of various oil coolers, I have seen some significant temperature swings using Mocal/Setrab vs generic models. However, one has to be sure placement, surrounding shielding, ducting&c was done properly before denouncing it soley as a materials/design shortcoming. I have seen improperly shrouded yet well designed coolant radiators run 50+ degrees hotter than a properly shrouded and placed lesser unit and somewhat less so with oil coolers.
STANDARD THERMOSTAT
Starts opening: 169 - 176F (76 - 80C)
Fully open: 194F (90C)
SWITCH
ON: 195 - 203F (91 - 95C)
OFF: 5 - 15F (3 - 8C) lower than the temperature when it qoes on
As to how this compares with the Nissan or any other auto, as they are all designed differently in terms of engine materials used, TS and fan switch settings, radiator size&c&c it would seem fruitless to compare other than as a standard to attain. I have always been told by engine builders that coolant temperature is a latent heat measure whereas oil is more correlated to immediate engine stress - oil is in direct contact with moving parts whereas the coolant is circulated seperated by a wall. As a result, a hard track session will have more impact on the oil temperature due to the moving parts being under more direct stress from higher RPMs than the coolant being seperated from the combustion process. My perspective has therefore always been to focus on controlling the heat of the oil thus making coolant temperature a secondary (yet important) concern for reliability in a properly running engine. Perhaps what we need here is some input by the Laskey guys(or other generally accepted quality engine builder for the F20/22C)?
As regards the efficiency of various oil coolers, I have seen some significant temperature swings using Mocal/Setrab vs generic models. However, one has to be sure placement, surrounding shielding, ducting&c was done properly before denouncing it soley as a materials/design shortcoming. I have seen improperly shrouded yet well designed coolant radiators run 50+ degrees hotter than a properly shrouded and placed lesser unit and somewhat less so with oil coolers.
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
Another observation/question:
az3ar Posted: Jun 8 2009, 02:09 AM
Does this mean you are not using the OEM heat exchanger anymore?
If so, did you have to get rid of it because of the GReddy?
If one doesn't want to loose the OME heat exchaner can one stack a GReddy on top of the exchanger?
Oil Filter > GReddy (for an accusump) > Exchanger > Block
Is that ^ a sturdy/safe enough setup?
az3ar Posted: Jun 8 2009, 02:09 AM
From the Greddy sandwich between the filter and the block.
If so, did you have to get rid of it because of the GReddy?
If one doesn't want to loose the OME heat exchaner can one stack a GReddy on top of the exchanger?
Oil Filter > GReddy (for an accusump) > Exchanger > Block
Is that ^ a sturdy/safe enough setup?
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From: NOVA DC area
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Jun 9 2009, 09:57 AM
Another observation/question:
az3ar Posted: Jun 8 2009, 02:09 AM
Does this mean you are not using the OEM heat exchanger anymore?
If so, did you have to get rid of it because of the GReddy?
If one doesn't want to loose the OME heat exchaner can one stack a GReddy on top of the exchanger?
Oil Filter > GReddy (for an accusump) > Exchanger > Block
Is that ^ a sturdy/safe enough setup?
az3ar Posted: Jun 8 2009, 02:09 AM
Does this mean you are not using the OEM heat exchanger anymore?
If so, did you have to get rid of it because of the GReddy?
If one doesn't want to loose the OME heat exchaner can one stack a GReddy on top of the exchanger?
Oil Filter > GReddy (for an accusump) > Exchanger > Block
Is that ^ a sturdy/safe enough setup?
Your questions are valid and I been searching on how to configure my oil cooler if I get one.
I think it will go like this stock heat exchange--> greddy sandwich--> oil relocation kit----> oil filter---> oil cooler---> back to relocation kit--> greddy sandwich--->Exchanger---> block
And you ask me why I am hesitant to install one. Yes if your car is street driven and you like bling get it but my car goes through serious push on the track and I have to be 100% sure that every part I add to the 5K engine wont cause it to fail.
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From: Peachtree City, GA
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From: Sad to see her go :,(
Originally Posted by az3ar,Jun 8 2009, 01:40 PM
Here is what I got from an experiance man 
"sharing info with the community"
Without a cooler, extended oil temps of 300+ can become an issue (and you can run well into the 350 degree range for short stints if you have good quality oil, I wouldn't recommend it, but it can be done).
260 is not even high enough I would even bother to look at the gauge.
As long as the pressure is still holding when it is hot, and you're running a good synthetic like Mobil 1, then those temps should not be an issue.
Also as long as the engine coolant temp is steady, then just keep and eye on oil pressure (or get a low pressure idiot light).
I'd bet that car runs in the 220 degree range for coolant temps too. The super high efficiency Honda stuff tends to keep the coolant temps high to help maximize efficiency.
You want the minimum oil temp to be in the 220+ degree range, otherwise the engine oil will not separate from the moisture accumulation in the engine oil (steaming/boiling it off).
"sharing info with the community"
Without a cooler, extended oil temps of 300+ can become an issue (and you can run well into the 350 degree range for short stints if you have good quality oil, I wouldn't recommend it, but it can be done).
260 is not even high enough I would even bother to look at the gauge.
As long as the pressure is still holding when it is hot, and you're running a good synthetic like Mobil 1, then those temps should not be an issue.
Also as long as the engine coolant temp is steady, then just keep and eye on oil pressure (or get a low pressure idiot light).
I'd bet that car runs in the 220 degree range for coolant temps too. The super high efficiency Honda stuff tends to keep the coolant temps high to help maximize efficiency.
You want the minimum oil temp to be in the 220+ degree range, otherwise the engine oil will not separate from the moisture accumulation in the engine oil (steaming/boiling it off).
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From: Mercer, PA
In the past running a VR6 gti at Nelson Ledges, the oil saw 300 degrees. Yes, I was concerned and added a very small oil cooler afterwards, but the 300 didn't cause any problems with Mobil1, of which I have used drums over the years. I do however think there are better oils today compared to the standard mobil 1, however it is a good oil!!
I agree if your 260-280 and take care of changing it, then don't sweat it. If your anal like most of us, spent a couple of bucks on a small cooler, you will be amazed at how much a 3x6 cooler will bring the temps down.
my 2 cents...
I agree if your 260-280 and take care of changing it, then don't sweat it. If your anal like most of us, spent a couple of bucks on a small cooler, you will be amazed at how much a 3x6 cooler will bring the temps down.
my 2 cents...