I agree with Nissanfinatic all the radiator in the world doesn't do you any good unless you can get clean air to it not going through the intercooler. With that said I'll have drawings for an idea in a bit.

 

During a 20 minute session at Road America with my car turbo'd it was usually around 215 highest I saw was 230. Honestly the only reliable way to track a turbo S2000 is with a nice V mount setup.

 

Get rid of radiator and get a dual core
V mount your inter cooler so radiator gets air
If you can get e85 do it, if not race gas
I think the AC needs to go


I used to have crazy heat issues with my turbo, rebuilt with a charger and now my temps don't get high enough (well oil, water stays between 165-180 on track)

 

Be careful with venting hood, if you do make sure air isn't being sucked in! I'd get the fins...

 

I made the mistake of ducting my FMIC directly in line with radiator on my S13 KA-T setup which was producing 350whp at 14psi. It overheated immediately on track (climbed to 230*f after 2 laps). Once I removed the upper duct to allow some air to bypass the intercooler and go to the radiator, temps stayed under 220*F.

Proper ducting is essential and should be priority for any heat exchanger.

 

Everyone keeps mentioning proper hood venting. I measured differential pressure (Flow occurs across a pressure differential) of .06psi @ 60mph 16.5" back from the beginning of the hood. If pressure is 0.06psi higher on the bottom of the hood vs the top at that point, air has to flow out of the engine bay. Measuring tire pressure is measuring air pressure inside of the tire vs ambient IE a differential pressure of ~33psi. If you poke a hole in your tire regardless of shape, air will exit the tire until there is zero differential pressure.

 

I agree about the pressures but I think the point people are trying to make is that there are ways to maximize the efficiency of this. As in, you wouldn't want to put the hole(s) close to the windshield as this is usually a high pressure area that could defeat the purpose or at least reduce the efficiency.

 

Right. Differential pressure would be negative for intents and purposes here.

I also agree on designing the vent to trip the boundary layer to some degree like most people do with louvers or with a rear facing vent. I used a GT500 hood vent for this reason.

I measured before this point at about 10" (any further forward and I would have been way beyond the radiator in small increments all the way back to 36". At 36", I measured .04psi. Differential pressure stayed rather high at about .05psi even up to 10" but I would recommend venting aft of the radiator. It also shows higher pressure in this region.

 

Thanks for the advise, really good pointers here.
I already contacted Ian (Mrsideways), he is going to make a radiator/fan setup for me.
Most of the parts in the bay are heatwrapped, hood is vented, turbo just got a new blanket today.
I may drop the airco if this doesn't help enough. First going to see what the new radiator does.

 

Only one other person had mentioned it... Your coolant. I would suggest 20/80 mix. 20 coolant, 80 water. The coolant should be in the system for nothing more than corrosion resistance only. Suggestions from Texas 105F/41c ambient temps with 70-80% humidity at 700ft above sea level. If your temps do not come down after trying that, I would think layout change like Vmount setup would be your next bet... but water is cheaper and you should try it first