If you read the first post, that is not a solution to his problem. He needs the top of the throttle closer to the brake pedal. The normal bend the pedal trick will not address his problem.

 

Even if you could move the top of the throttle pedal closer to the brake pedal, keep in mind the height has to be absolutely perfect for this technique to work. The height would have to be adjusted in such a way that when the brake is pushed in as hard as you can push it in, both the throttle and brake pedals should be flush.

This is how I did it in Formula Mazda. In this type of car, both the brake and throttle pedals were fully adjustable in terms of height. The brakes on a Formula Mazda have two master cylinders (one for the front and one for the rear) that have two rods that are threaded with jam nuts to allow for not only brake bias adjustment, but pedal height.

It is not likely you could make this work on the S unless you did some MAJOR modifications.

 

[QUOTE=teamking,Aug 2 2004, 05:23 AM]

We're not all built the same.

 

I also use the rolling of the ball of my foot method. This is the usual way to heal and toe according to the instructors I have had at track days. With size fourteen feet it is the only viable method for me.
My solution, like others was to bend the throttle. I also used a hammer to move the metal holding the linkage to the floor further toward the engine bay. This combo brought the gas pedal closer to the brake pedal and a little further toward the floor so it was positioned perfectly for heal and toe while braking hard on the track or autocross.
This adjustment required a little fiddling with the gas pedal cable to adjust the slack.
Tod

 

No offense taken. Like you rlaifatt, I also have natural toe-out and that's usually true for over 50% of the people out there. It doesn't stop me and a lot of other drivers who's feet look like they're toed out 45 degrees in each direction. Something that's not discussed here that I feel is equally important is driver fitness to include flexibility and range of motion. Before driving autocross, I usually take 30 minutes to do a few stretches and such to help rotate my ankles, free up my toes, hamstring and calf stretches etc. I play basketball and we're used to pivoting our feet when transitioning from offense to defense back to offense again... I'm certain a lot of us can relate to this motion in our own ways.

If you can pivot your feet, you can rotate your foot to do a proper heel toe. Proper foot and ankle rotations before driving will help a lot. I don't recommend doing toe-heel with the heel on the brake. I know you're not the first and won't be the last, but the human foot has more nerves (meaning it's more sensitive) at the ball of the foot and toes and you must feel what the brakes are doing by controlling the level of modulation. The throttle doesn't have to be controlled nearly as precise for "blipping" purposes, so the heel suffices for that.

Here's an experiement. Drive on the street normally and try to use your brakes as precisely as you can using your normal (right) foot. You'd probably choose to use the upper half of your foot to modulate the brakes under varying conditions. Now do the same thing but try and control the brakes using your heel, you'd find that it's a lot more difficult (and clumsy) to do. HT techniques call for blipping the throttle, not feathering it. You can blip the throttle using either end of your foot just as effectively as you could using your own hand. A local Miata driver was talking to me about this exact same subject a month back and I told him that I could go more aggressive and deeper (late) into the brakes and maintain control than his reversed technique which often scrubs off way too much entry speed and ends up getting on the brakes way too early. After reviewing a few videos, he was convinced.

If your method works for you then that's all that matters.

 

 

Well, as much as I liked the look of the Autovation pedals, I decided to go cheap on this issue.

I happened to have a little bracket (1.5" x .75") with four inset holes, already threaded. I drilled two holes in my pedal and ran a couple of screws from the back, through the pedal, to the bracket. It hangs off the side of my pedal about 3/8". I've got mounted about 1/2" from the top. The four holes are actually recessed, so they create some ridges on what has become the pedal surface-- the result seems to be the right amount of grip between the shoes and the "tab".

Took it out for a spin and it did really well. My biggest problem was working on repositioning my foot on the brake. I've gotten so used to putting the ball of my foot all the way to the right over the years that I can't stop myself from doing it.

I'm going to give it a little more time before I decide that it is THE solution. But, at least for now, it's working and not nearly as flimsy as it may sound.

 

Which pedal did you mount this to???

 

Gas pedal.