Please interpret these alignment specs.
#1
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O.K., the alignment threads have been beaten to death and this is NOT one of those. I knew what I wanted and now that I have the specs in front of me I wanted some feedback from the S2K autocrossers.
I went with -1.65 camber front and -2.15 rear and that part I can read.
My first question is how do I know how much toe I actually have (I asked for 1/8 inch out in front and 1/4 inch in in the rear) and these specs are in degrees. The tech talked with authority and I had no expertise in the area so I looked over the sheet and said alright. So, in the front it lists the toe as -0.14 per side for a total of -0.28. The rear has +0.28 per side for a total of +0.56.
So, did I get what I asked for? And when I read all of the specs in these posts, I've assumed that they were talking about TOTAL toe in/out. Is that the right assumption? If not I probably butchered this.
Second question: after a week of trying to get used to this new alignment, with one autocross, it certainly feels like the front end is sloppier than before (when I had the "U.K." specs) - maybe I should say the on center feel is pretty dull and the initial turn in isn't quite as sharp. Is this due to the additional toe out in front or is a caster setting of 6.34 responsible (I simply asked the tech. to get as much caster as possible without sacrificing neg. camber).
Advice would be helpful but I'm hoping just to get some reassurance that the job was done properly.
I understand most aspects of automobiles, but alignments are still pretty much greek to me so don't bother flaming. If I knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking questions here...
I went with -1.65 camber front and -2.15 rear and that part I can read.
My first question is how do I know how much toe I actually have (I asked for 1/8 inch out in front and 1/4 inch in in the rear) and these specs are in degrees. The tech talked with authority and I had no expertise in the area so I looked over the sheet and said alright. So, in the front it lists the toe as -0.14 per side for a total of -0.28. The rear has +0.28 per side for a total of +0.56.
So, did I get what I asked for? And when I read all of the specs in these posts, I've assumed that they were talking about TOTAL toe in/out. Is that the right assumption? If not I probably butchered this.
Second question: after a week of trying to get used to this new alignment, with one autocross, it certainly feels like the front end is sloppier than before (when I had the "U.K." specs) - maybe I should say the on center feel is pretty dull and the initial turn in isn't quite as sharp. Is this due to the additional toe out in front or is a caster setting of 6.34 responsible (I simply asked the tech. to get as much caster as possible without sacrificing neg. camber).
Advice would be helpful but I'm hoping just to get some reassurance that the job was done properly.
I understand most aspects of automobiles, but alignments are still pretty much greek to me so don't bother flaming. If I knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking questions here...
#4
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Originally posted by Ludedude
The toe specs are much more extreme than anything I've seen before.
The toe specs are much more extreme than anything I've seen before.
Steve
#5
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yeah WOW.
.5" in the rear will make your s2k turn like a buick.
With the toe out in the front that'll make for interesting driving.
I'd go closer to 0 toe in front and .25" tops toe in in the rear.
Less rear toe-in if you find the rear doesn't rotate enuf.
-Ry
.5" in the rear will make your s2k turn like a buick.
With the toe out in the front that'll make for interesting driving.
I'd go closer to 0 toe in front and .25" tops toe in in the rear.
Less rear toe-in if you find the rear doesn't rotate enuf.
-Ry
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Damn Todd,
You're just not having a good week, are you?
You may have mistakenly doubled the toe after reading the threads. It can get a little confusing when some people are talking total toe and other are talking about each side.
With all of the miles I put on my car, I opted to save the rear tires and go 0 toe in the rear and 1/8 TOTAL out at the front. I could see the rubber being pulled to the side of the tire on the rears and they would only last about 12000 miles (S-02's lasted about 5,000 in the rear with no sway bar). IT still seems to work pretty well, and from what Coraldoc tells me, he agrees. Camber, I adjusted it, but don't have the numbers in front of me.
I hope you get it straight in time to put it to the test.
I hope next week is better for you.
See you Sunday.
You're just not having a good week, are you?
You may have mistakenly doubled the toe after reading the threads. It can get a little confusing when some people are talking total toe and other are talking about each side.
With all of the miles I put on my car, I opted to save the rear tires and go 0 toe in the rear and 1/8 TOTAL out at the front. I could see the rubber being pulled to the side of the tire on the rears and they would only last about 12000 miles (S-02's lasted about 5,000 in the rear with no sway bar). IT still seems to work pretty well, and from what Coraldoc tells me, he agrees. Camber, I adjusted it, but don't have the numbers in front of me.
I hope you get it straight in time to put it to the test.
I hope next week is better for you.
See you Sunday.
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#8
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O.K. I screwed that first post up (can't rely on memory). I asked for 1/8" out-front <total>and 1/4" in-rear <total>. Sounds a little better huh?
So do the degree specs listed, and they are in degrees not in fractions of an inch, come out right? -0.28*=(roughly) 1/8"? And + 0.56*=(roughly) 1/4"? That's what I really need to know.
Sorry about the confusion.
So do the degree specs listed, and they are in degrees not in fractions of an inch, come out right? -0.28*=(roughly) 1/8"? And + 0.56*=(roughly) 1/4"? That's what I really need to know.
Sorry about the confusion.