Please interpret these alignment specs.
Originally posted by payneinthe
The toe numbers seem backwards too me. Is toe in represented with a positive value and toe out with a negative value?
The toe numbers seem backwards too me. Is toe in represented with a positive value and toe out with a negative value?
Its nice of them
OK now I am totally confused. So I went and measured the distance between the rear wheels.
From the front of the tire it is 58 1/8 " from the rear of the tire it is 58 1/2".
$1,000,000 question: Is this toe in or toe out? Too much?
Ken
From the front of the tire it is 58 1/8 " from the rear of the tire it is 58 1/2".
$1,000,000 question: Is this toe in or toe out? Too much?
Ken
Had an alignment done yesterday and am wondering if the toe specs are okay for the track. Front is 1/32" left and 0" right (close enough to zero total), and Rear is 7/32" each side, for 7/16" total toe-in (assuming that positive number in the rear means toe-in). For Rear I asked for 1/8" each side for 1/4" total, but the tech could not get it there. Is 7/16 total toe-in rear reasonable ?
Camber is -1.9* front and -2.5* rear (both the max he could get), running 245/45 17 front 275/40/17 rear, shaved street tires.
Camber is -1.9* front and -2.5* rear (both the max he could get), running 245/45 17 front 275/40/17 rear, shaved street tires.
7/16" is an okay value for autocross, but too much for the track, especially with the big tires you'll be running. I'd go for 1/4" max, and be tempted to just run zero; it'll help tire life as well as handling.
I thought the car toed-out in bump, so it doesn't make sense to me that he can't get it to zero with your lowered suspension. If -2.5* is the least amount of negative camber you can get, that could be the limiting factor. Have them loosen everything up and see how much you camber you can get at zero toe - if he can only get it back "up" to -3 then that's probably okay. More than 3.25 is going to be a bit much...
I thought the car toed-out in bump, so it doesn't make sense to me that he can't get it to zero with your lowered suspension. If -2.5* is the least amount of negative camber you can get, that could be the limiting factor. Have them loosen everything up and see how much you camber you can get at zero toe - if he can only get it back "up" to -3 then that's probably okay. More than 3.25 is going to be a bit much...
Jason, remember I am running big tires in the front also, so I thought the rear might be unstable with zero toe, which he did get at one time, but 7/32 was the next measurement of toe-in he could get (I think the machine wasn't calibrated finely; looked old). Also, with the downfoce of the wing on higher speed tirns, will that create toe-in or out?
The tech could only get within 3/16ths of your specified rear toe number? He sucks. You will notice a difference between 1/4" in and 7/16" in. The car should be a bit pushier and it should suffer a little bit in a straight line.
It sounds like a LOT of toe in to me, but I come from Subaru land. I'm used to a rear toe setting of 5/8" toe out in the rear. I'm still getting used to the whole idea of toe in.
Andy H.
It sounds like a LOT of toe in to me, but I come from Subaru land. I'm used to a rear toe setting of 5/8" toe out in the rear. I'm still getting used to the whole idea of toe in.
Andy H.
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