As a complete novice with shocks I am looking for advice. I currently got some AST 4150s(thanks for the trade ViperASR
These puppies are mint but since I wanna do everything at once so I dont have to redo it I am getting them rebuild and revalved before I even put them on.
I want to build my car to be "competitive" in autox (even though in stock form it is)but yet still be fun on the track and daily driving. Impossible task pretty much I know.
I basically want to run 800lb F and 650R rear(unless you guys are apposed to that as it was recommended by ASTs rebuilder Stuart Macxy) 255s on 17x9.5, comptech v2 currently. I have read all the "facts" here but am looking for correcting wording I guess to tell whoever builds them. Can any of you look at AST's shock dyno and say "I would rather have the elbow at such and such a point instead????"
Right now "we can find a valving that will work for you as a dual purpose car" doesnt really make me confident with the rebuild/revalve. I want to know its different than whats there already, ya know. Can I just take one of these proven shock dynos from you top level autoxers and say "I want this" and have it done closely even though different shocks???? Getting them converted to doubles is not out of the question at this point yet.
Would sending them to Ankeney(or Anze) be better than to ASTs rebuilder since Guy is "proven" even though its with Penske? He said he hasnt had ASTs apart but if parts are available he can do it I have learned its best to send shocks to someone who is familiar with them so I'm not sure what to do really.

 

Anyone that can is a BS merchant, unless they've spent a lot of time working with that exact shock at similar settings, because that kind of dyno output is really just to check and match dampers against each other, rather than give initial settings, it doesn't give enough information on how the damper responds bar a basic check that it's built correctly and the pressure are right.
Someone who's worked with them for a long time, will just work with you to fine tune the settings, because every driver, driving style and car setup is unique, what's best for grip might not work for the driver, and vice versa...
You can sit down and work out the damping rates, where the knee should be, what the bleed and pressures should be, etc, etc. But it will only ever be a starting point for further tuning.