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remove steering power assist

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jean-roch
You remove all electric component in the rack, if not, it will be lots hard to turn and not have the lighter feeling.
I depowered a Miata rack in much the same way. When you depower a rack with hydraulic power assist, you have to weld or otherwise prevent the spool valve at the bottom of the steering column from twisting or breaking.

Is there an equivalent part in the EPS steering column or rack that should be reinforced when you depower the rack?
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 08:28 AM
  #32  
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Yes, you have tu made a bushing on the side of the motor to support the shaft

Originally Posted by grubinski
Originally Posted by jean-roch' timestamp='1382545122' post='22842254
You remove all electric component in the rack, if not, it will be lots hard to turn and not have the lighter feeling.
I depowered a Miata rack in much the same way. When you depower a rack with hydraulic power assist, you have to weld or otherwise prevent the spool valve at the bottom of the steering column from twisting or breaking.

Is there an equivalent part in the EPS steering column or rack that should be reinforced when you depower the rack?
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #33  
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I had a student a number of months ago that his stopped working for whatever reason and we continued. He let me drive the car. It was annoying in paddock but once on track it wasn't that noticeable. Still felt heavy which aggravated me when I needed to use countersteer because I felt it hindered my ability to get the countersteer in as quickly as I needed. Wasn't near as bad as a rental spec Miata I had a year or so earlier. That car I flat couldn't get the steering in fast enough. I'm weird though, I don't like having feeling in the steering, the closer you can get it to a joy stick the happier I am, being able to go lock to lock like flicking your thumb is ideal.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 06:39 AM
  #34  
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Some commercial unit needs to make that bushing and offer it up. I'd definitely like to gut my steering rack. Wait, I have a mill and lathe in the garage. Hmmmmmm.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #35  
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I have picture of the parts removed of the rack but it seem to be impossible as a guest to post pictures... how can i do it???

Review of the first ride: the bushing pressed on the right side was tight, the steering is hard but it seem that when it will loose in 1 or 2 weeks, the steering will be smoother but the gutted s2ki rack made the car a man car!

If anybody can tell me how to post pictures, i will post it and if not, i can email the pictures if you want to see the inside parts removed!
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #36  
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Review after a run on the freeway and 35km on streets: on the freeway, it was very, very more sensitive, you need to be very careful (AP1 rack with spoon rigids bushings, C/R braces and fixed torque sensor shaft help to the sharp feel). It was sensitive but lots more precision and the steering is still hard to turn at this speed, little more than stock, i was thinking that it will be very light but no, i seem that at high speed, the stock EPS assist is gone, the feel is different since there a no restriction in the gutted rack.

At low speed or when drift the car, you work lots more, a man car, an AP2 gutted rack will be less hard to turn with 2.6 turns lock to lock and lower 14.9 ratio but less funny for me!

The steering is very more communicative and it was lots more connected on the road but is was more instable. On bad road, its best to drive with 2 hands on the steering but you feel all, exactly what i want since i never like the video game without feel of the stock EPS rack, the reason i gutted the rack.

It will be more smoother to drive when the end bushing that was installed on the right side will be slightly worn out but for track, the EPS was definitively faster in turns, it was a modification for feel, not for efficiency on a heavy car like the S2000.

It was a radical modification, not for all, like the 4.77 gear on AP2 that i have and like so much or the innovative mounts (75a) that i hate for all the vibrations and that cause lots of rattles in the car trims, i have remove them and i only keep the transmission to improve shifter feel.
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Old Nov 1, 2013 | 04:52 PM
  #37  
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After lots of tune, adjustment, CR suspension set-up and best alignment, it really work, i first adjust the rack too slack and it was very instable but after tightning the adjustment, it was little heavy in straight line but not harder in turn but give less road feedback with the proper adjustment.

It was more pleasant than oem EPS and no light on cluster with fuse remove and EPS module unplug.

On turn, it was not so hard to turn, simply adjust effort by throttle input and with the torque sensor shaft welded, Spoon bushings, CR braces and Ap1 ratio, it was razor sharp precise, more direct than the Lotus Elise, happy men ;-)
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #38  
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Pulled EPS fuse for a recent track day and like the added feel.

The two solutions seem to be a gutted s2k rack or an fd rx7 manual rack. Is this correct?

Anybody running w/o EPS support the steering shaft with a spherical bearing?
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 03:27 PM
  #39  
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Check this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-S2000-...033474&vxp=mtr
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jean-roch
Thanks. Im more interested in what was done to gut the rack and if people are supporting the steering shaft. I assume you are the seller. Do you have any photos or details of the procedure you went through? Might also help your sale.
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