I was worried that I had warped rotors after my recent track day, but I did a search, read the Stoptech article about the myth, and decided I likely have thickness variation on my rotors.

In the article, it recommends using a semi-metallic pad, properly bed it, and then bring it up to temp to negate the TV. I used Porterfield R4S's (after a proper break-in) at the track. What pad should I use to get rid of the buildup? Do I need to use a more aggressive pad, or just a different pad? I put my used OEM pads back in...can I use these?

Thanks for any help.

 

OEM and R4S's are way too soft to effectively "turn" the rotors (scrub off the uneven pad deposits). Need a full race pad like Hawk Blue/Black, or the mythical upcoming Cobalts.

 

You could get the rotors lathed for quite a bit less than the cost of a set of race pads.

I never had trouble with the rotors, then I started having lots of trouble with them. I came to the conclusion that I was overtemping the pads, and that was causing the rotor issues.

I switched to higher temp pads and so far the issues have disappeared again. We'll see.

 

Rather than lathe them, use a scotchbrite-type wheel and moderate pressure - you won't take off any metal, just the deposits. I've also seen rotors bead-blasted to remove deposits with plenty of success.

 

This is the method I've used on my beater. Seems to work fine.

 

Are you guys talking about a wheel attachment for a roto-zip? If I go to a Home Depot I can ask someone for a "Scotch-Brite" wheel? Is the idea that the wheel will not go through metal, but it'll go through whatever pad material is on the rotor? Do I need to work the wheel in any special direction?

Thanks for all of the replies...this is good stuff. I've learned alot already and you've likely saved me hundreds of dollars and time not driving my car!

 

Like this.



You attach it to a right angle drinder