S2000 Brake Fade on Track
#21
... I think I am set on the Project Mu Club Racer pads fased on the good reviews.....Only question I have is whether I should keep the XP8 in the rear and swap for Club Racer in the front. Just a little hesitant about front and rear Project Mu club racer pads unless anyone has experience with the pads in the rain and not problems
#22
I ran Hawk Street/Race pads front and back and it was OK. When I would push hard, I could feel them fade.
Now running Hawk DTC60 fronts and Hawk Street/Race (similar to DTC30) rears.
Akebono blank front rotors
Hawk (I think) rear rotors
Ducts all around
Gulf RF1000 fluid
Stock lines.
Hoosier R6 fronts, R7 rears. 225 width.
Absolutely no issue with brake fade.
I would advise upgrading your pads. If you get DTC, make sure you get new rotors. Those pads dont seem to like to be installed on rotors with other pad deposits and it'll shake.
Now running Hawk DTC60 fronts and Hawk Street/Race (similar to DTC30) rears.
Akebono blank front rotors
Hawk (I think) rear rotors
Ducts all around
Gulf RF1000 fluid
Stock lines.
Hoosier R6 fronts, R7 rears. 225 width.
Absolutely no issue with brake fade.
I would advise upgrading your pads. If you get DTC, make sure you get new rotors. Those pads dont seem to like to be installed on rotors with other pad deposits and it'll shake.
#23
If you REALLY want to cut back on fade, you may as well step up to a big brake kit
Bigger pads/rotors get you more heat capacity, and a higher heat capacity = less fade.
I have the StopTech sport pads on my car currently. The response is pretty linear and the bite isn't bad, but they're definitely still an (aggressive) street pad - or a lighter duty track pad depending on what you're doing. Stainless steel lines are on the to-do list.
Bigger pads/rotors get you more heat capacity, and a higher heat capacity = less fade.
I have the StopTech sport pads on my car currently. The response is pretty linear and the bite isn't bad, but they're definitely still an (aggressive) street pad - or a lighter duty track pad depending on what you're doing. Stainless steel lines are on the to-do list.
#24
If you REALLY want to cut back on fade, you may as well step up to a big brake kit
Bigger pads/rotors get you more heat capacity, and a higher heat capacity = less fade.
I have the StopTech sport pads on my car currently. The response is pretty linear and the bite isn't bad, but they're definitely still an (aggressive) street pad - or a lighter duty track pad depending on what you're doing. Stainless steel lines are on the to-do list.
Bigger pads/rotors get you more heat capacity, and a higher heat capacity = less fade.
I have the StopTech sport pads on my car currently. The response is pretty linear and the bite isn't bad, but they're definitely still an (aggressive) street pad - or a lighter duty track pad depending on what you're doing. Stainless steel lines are on the to-do list.
Stoptech Pads should never see track use.. They are like Hawk HPS at best... Barely satisfied me on the street.
PS- not hating on Stoptech. I love their BBK, just not their pads.
The following users liked this post:
f20craig (10-13-2017)
#25
Community Organizer
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br.../#post24366959
Some talk here about Power Stop Track Day pads being equivalent to CarboTechs and G-Loc pads but at half the price.
Link to Power Stop:
https://www.powerstop.com/product/tr...HONDA&mo=S2000
Track Day Brake Pads
World's 1st Platform Specific Track Day Friction Formula
Drivers who participate in “Track-Days” or “High Performance Driving Events (HPDE)” rely on their brakes and know the value of having the right brake pads. The Power Stop R&D team have spent countless hours formulating friction compounds that are matched to each individual vehicle platform, this means you spend more time on the track and less time trying to find the ideal brake pad setup for your vehicle. Power Stop’s (PST) Platform-Specific TrackDay friction compounds offer a very high coefficient of friction and resist fading even at the highest temperatures thanks to its Carbon-Fiber Metallic formulation.
Platform Specific Compound
Carbon-Fiber/Metallic formulation
High cold coefficient of friction
Increased friction as heat increases
Consistent brake modulation
Superior pedal feel
Low rotor wear compared to race pads
Engineered to work with High-Carbon Track Day rotors for Maximum Performance
Wondering if anyone here has tried them. I ordered a set from Rock Auto for about $73 shipped. I plan to try them last event of the season.
Some talk here about Power Stop Track Day pads being equivalent to CarboTechs and G-Loc pads but at half the price.
Link to Power Stop:
https://www.powerstop.com/product/tr...HONDA&mo=S2000
Track Day Brake Pads
World's 1st Platform Specific Track Day Friction Formula
Drivers who participate in “Track-Days” or “High Performance Driving Events (HPDE)” rely on their brakes and know the value of having the right brake pads. The Power Stop R&D team have spent countless hours formulating friction compounds that are matched to each individual vehicle platform, this means you spend more time on the track and less time trying to find the ideal brake pad setup for your vehicle. Power Stop’s (PST) Platform-Specific TrackDay friction compounds offer a very high coefficient of friction and resist fading even at the highest temperatures thanks to its Carbon-Fiber Metallic formulation.
Platform Specific Compound
Carbon-Fiber/Metallic formulation
High cold coefficient of friction
Increased friction as heat increases
Consistent brake modulation
Superior pedal feel
Low rotor wear compared to race pads
Engineered to work with High-Carbon Track Day rotors for Maximum Performance
Wondering if anyone here has tried them. I ordered a set from Rock Auto for about $73 shipped. I plan to try them last event of the season.
#26
Great info Joe! I've been wondering the same. I've been told they're pretty good...close to Carbotech XP10, but half the price. They use them on the Bondurant school cars. I'm probably going to give them a try.
Question for the experts here...I cooked my brakes (not sure if it's pads or fluid) at NYST last weekend. I didn't have a real loss in brake performance, just a spongy pedal with a longer travel, and brake fluid seeping out of the MC. I haven't gotten a chance to get under the car and take the brakes apart yet to inspect, but other than smell and a little smear, the pads and rotors seem to be OK. Question is, how to tell if it's the pads that got overheated, which in turn boiled the fluid, or if it's just the fluid that boiled? Is there a smoking gun or a telltale sign that I should be looking for in terms of component failure visual inspection or driver feel? I read somewhere that decreased braking performance means brake pads are cooked vs spongy pedal travel which would be fluid boiling...very helpful info from cracknut and gptoyz earlier in this thread!
For the record I have stock brake calipers, SS lines, Stoptech sport pads (hold up surprisingly well), and no name blank rotors. I will report back my findings, but I would appreciate any input regarding the root cause of my brake issue.
Question for the experts here...I cooked my brakes (not sure if it's pads or fluid) at NYST last weekend. I didn't have a real loss in brake performance, just a spongy pedal with a longer travel, and brake fluid seeping out of the MC. I haven't gotten a chance to get under the car and take the brakes apart yet to inspect, but other than smell and a little smear, the pads and rotors seem to be OK. Question is, how to tell if it's the pads that got overheated, which in turn boiled the fluid, or if it's just the fluid that boiled? Is there a smoking gun or a telltale sign that I should be looking for in terms of component failure visual inspection or driver feel? I read somewhere that decreased braking performance means brake pads are cooked vs spongy pedal travel which would be fluid boiling...very helpful info from cracknut and gptoyz earlier in this thread!
For the record I have stock brake calipers, SS lines, Stoptech sport pads (hold up surprisingly well), and no name blank rotors. I will report back my findings, but I would appreciate any input regarding the root cause of my brake issue.
Last edited by Mig233; 10-13-2017 at 05:57 AM.
#27
Last year I did the S2ki event at NYST with other members and also ran one time with EMRA. This year I did (2) EMRA events that I registered for last minute. Coordinating track days this season was a bit tough, but for next year I will select 2 or 3 events well in advance. I was actually going to sign up for the NYST event that just passed but decided not to last minute after finding out that I needed to work. I'll be in touch to see which events you plan to attend next year.
#28
I ran Hawk Street/Race pads front and back and it was OK. When I would push hard, I could feel them fade.
Now running Hawk DTC60 fronts and Hawk Street/Race (similar to DTC30) rears.
Akebono blank front rotors
Hawk (I think) rear rotors
Ducts all around
Gulf RF1000 fluid
Stock lines.
Hoosier R6 fronts, R7 rears. 225 width.
Absolutely no issue with brake fade.
I would advise upgrading your pads. If you get DTC, make sure you get new rotors. Those pads dont seem to like to be installed on rotors with other pad deposits and it'll shake.
Now running Hawk DTC60 fronts and Hawk Street/Race (similar to DTC30) rears.
Akebono blank front rotors
Hawk (I think) rear rotors
Ducts all around
Gulf RF1000 fluid
Stock lines.
Hoosier R6 fronts, R7 rears. 225 width.
Absolutely no issue with brake fade.
I would advise upgrading your pads. If you get DTC, make sure you get new rotors. Those pads dont seem to like to be installed on rotors with other pad deposits and it'll shake.
Thanks for sharing your awesome setup.
#29
Depends how hard you are on the brakes and what you expect out of your braking system. IIRC DS2500 are like Hawk HP+ equivalent... They can get overwhelmed on the track. The S2000 has great braking capabilities, so I enjoy making full use of them. Someone here ran DS2500 with AP racing and they ate themselves quite rapidly...
#30
UPDATE: Stoptech sport pads are fine...in fact I’m pretty damn impressed with how they are holding up. They have 4 autocross days (35 runs) and 2.5 trackdays on them.
Looks like the ATE fluid is the weak link.