Urge

Again, want to be clear, dont buy this for HP as it is minimal.

But theory is based upon several things..

• Weightless effect as the damping element is suspended in fluid inside the shell and not directly attached to the hub like OEM, thus rotational weight is less
• Better dampening of harmful vibrations so engine is working against itself less
• Possible Timing improvement as the crank is flexing less (stretching)

Please visit our site for a write up and 3 real dynos, 3 different engines on 3 different types of dynos..

yamahaSHO

I went ahead and installed my Fluidampr tonight. It was incredibly easy coming from a FWD car that had two non-self adjusting belts. While taking my time, from pulling the FIPK off, the belt, and the stock pulley, it took me about 20 minutes. My stock pulley slid off by hand and the Fluidampr seemed to slip on the same.

I haven't torqued it yet because it's late and am tired. I will take care of it in the morning and go for a test drive. I have a buddy who works at Honda, so he was able to loan out the crank pulley holding tool. I used a block and a towel on the passenger strut tower to wedge it to, then used a 1/2" ratchet with a 6-point socket and half of my jack handle. It took some muscle, but came off relatively easy.



There were some small raised particles on the sealing surface for the crank seal. I was able to get them off with my finger nail. They could barely be seen, but you could feel them. Hopefully I don't get a leak!

yamahaSHO

I did a little bit of driving after installing the Fluidampr yesterday (nothing else changed) and I can feel the difference. The idle is a little smoother. I haven't had the car long, but coupled with my exhaust, the idle could get a bit annoying at times. I can say it is less annoying now. Another thing I noticed, which I tried many times to duplicate, is that my untuned car used to occasionally hesitate when dropping the RPM's in neutral. I did not notice this issue yesterday at all. I'm waiting on my Boomslang harness so I can tune the car with my Greddy EMU, but after not changing anything, I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

A couple notes:

- The Honda tool for holding the pulley/engine from moving does not fit quite as well. It is a tiny be loose compared to the stock pulley and the tool was almost not deep enough to hold the pulley. We had to use a hand to hold the tool in while tightening.

- One of the attachment style tools (kind that attaches to a breaker bar) might work better as they appear like they'd go deeper and also help clear the accessories. I could not rest the Honda tool on the drivers strut tower (with a block of wood) to tighten the crank bolt (I was able to rest the holder tool handle on the passenger side to break the bolt loose). My buddy stood on the opposite side of the car holding the pulley tool so I could tighten the bolt to ~182 ft-lbs.

tongboy

I've been looking for an f20c specific aftermarket damper for a while - I like the harmonics improvements but primarily I'm looking to mount a dry sump mandrel and one of these is a lot easier than modifying a stock piece.

In looking at your website & fluidampr's I've been unable to locate a mandrel drive mount that is setup for the 3 bolt spacing that fluidampr employs (that is different than the ATI bolt pattern)

Can you get a hold of the properly sized mandrel or point me in the right direction to locate one? I'd like to confirm they exist withough have to have a custom one machined before picking up a pulley.

Urge

It will have to be custom, the 3 bolts are mounted inside the hub that holds the damping ring.
We were working on a similar mounting solution for several supercharger drive pulleys as well. Just too much work on our plate.

Ill double check with fluidampr for the dry sump drive mandrel though..

tongboy

I'd love to hear if fluidampr could point something out. I'd be surprised if they continued making a part with a drive mandrel bolt pattern that nobody makes a part for...

Urge

Im waiting on a response, ive pinged a few times. Ill post as soon as I get a response..

stlandy

How have people gotten the crank bolt loose? Tried the Honda damper holding tool and breaker bar with jack handle extension with no luck. Ok to impact the bolt off? Never like doing that on the crankshaft but if that is what is needed than that's what I will do.

bruthaboost

I used the honda holding tool leveraged (bundled around a few shop towels) against the subframe with a breaker bar and another breaker bar on the crank bolt. I used a floor jack handle as an extension on the crank pulley's breaker bar.

Someone posted a technique where you invert a compressed air can and chill the bolt to shrink it down a smidge. Said it worked like a charm.

stlandy

I had the Honda tool against the shock tower and roughly 4' of leverage with the jack handle on the bolt with no luck. I have some Freeze Off penetrant so maybe try that. Did you have to replace the seal when you did the install? Just get very nervous when having to apply that much torque to something to break it loose.