I have the same scale as HunterEz... Some of your numbers are pretty close but a few (steering wheel) seem pretty off...

Pass seat , brackets and bolts - 33lbs (effectively the same for the Dr seat)
Intake (everything forward of the tb) - 10.4lbs
Stock steering wheel w/ airbag - 6.2lbs (airbag is 2.4lbs)
Sparco steering wheel - 2.2lbs
Spoon hub - .8lbs
Exhaust header back - 64.2lbs (cat is 12.4lbs)

Also, the previous post about only the REAR wheel weight affecting rotational mass is incorrect. Anything that is rotated via engine power should be considered rotational mass. Your front wheels don't rotate themselves...

Also keep in mind that the MOI for rotating components is what's important. Given similar mass distribution diameter is king. So while it's good to lighten your driveshaft, similar weight savings in the tires or reducing tire diameter would have more effect in terms of power loss.

 

^ Thanks, that helps a lot. So I lost 33lbs with the pax seat but probably only 3lbs with the steering wheel. Like I said, overall my weights are pretty close, but it's nice to have exact figures. We need to get a list like this together of all the stock parts that can be removed. You and HunterEz would help greatly with this and I'm sure many people on this forum would really appreciate it. There aren't many places around to put your car on a scale so there's lots of math involved. I would like it to be a bit more scientific instead of a bunch of guesswork.

Pics as requested:

 

Looking REALLY good and clean !

(too bad we missed at the Ring ! )

 

I'm glad someone brought up those points. That ENTIRE post was incorrect, not just the rear wheels thing.

Rotational mass is rotational mass, no matter where it is. If you need to increase or decerease the rotational speed of anything on the car, you must apply a force. Rotational forces are dependent on torques. Torque is a function of mass AND distance. Therefore you cannot ay that X lbs weight savings in rotational components is like Y lbs in static components, it's no where near that simple.

Unsprung weight is a completely different equation. Unsprung weight is generally more important than static weight because it must be accelerated vertically as well as in the car's direction of travel. As the car goes over bumps the suspension compresses and rebounds. This extra movement takes additional energy. The less energy that is required (i.e. lower unsprung mass), the quicker the wheels can be accelerated up over a bump, while still having the necessary spring strength to bring them back down afterwards, maintaining the best possible grip with the road.

Obviously, this too is nowhere near simple enough to make such basic estimations, no matter what "your buddy said."

 

*update*
I removed all the A/C lines last night, including the solenoid on the front of the radiator. I will be taking the compressor out as soon as I get the belt for it. It's supposed to be a 6 rib 45" belt but the places I called only have a 45 1/8" belt. The tensioner pulley should be able to easily take up that slack. A/c really takes up a lot of weight and space in the engine bay. My engine bay looks so much cleaner now. Anybody know anything else I can remove besides the lines and compressor? I've heard there's a box inside the dash for A/C, but you have to take off the dash to get to it.

 

45.125 is fine. I've run a 45.5 w/o problem before.

 

why not just buy the OEM Honda non A/C belt?!

 

More important would be -why-?

Its a consumable part and you can get an aftermarket for a 1/4 the price.

-Ry

 

Hi Ry,

didnt know the oem was 4x the price of an random part

but you can also buy the Spoon belt for 4x the price of the OEM belt

 

^ Which is why I didn't buy the Spoon or J's racing belt. Last time I checked, I think the J's was like $85. That's ridiculous for a freaking serpentine belt! I can go to Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, etc and get the same belt for $20.