I have a MY01. The car is my DD but will also be getting some track time as well as AutoX time.

I'm currently running a slightly staggered wheel setup. With 215s in front and 245s in the rear... though that will likely change soon. Either going to be upgrading to the 949Racing 6ULR wheels soon (also staggered), or at the very least try and get some better tires on my current wheels.

My suspension is all stock thus far and I was thinking of upgrading my front sway. The two best seem to be the Saner and Gendron bars, obvioulsy with Saner being less stiff but also a lot less expensive. I have found a pretty good price on a used Gendron though.

Anyways, do you think the Gendron would be overkill for me? My hopes are to make the car fairly neutral (oversteer bias if not completely neutral), and if I can do that with the Saner it would obviously save me some money. From past threads I've seen some complaints about the Saner endlink quality though, as well as some noise complaints, but those threads are fairly old, so I have no idea if those problems have been fixed or not...

My car is my DD as well so obviously I'll be using the same setup on the street and track...

What do you guys suggest? Any general comments about either of the bars? The majority of the info seems to be pretty old...

Thanks,
-Will

 

Firstly, will you AutoX on r-compounds? Track on r-compounds?

Which Gendron? There are several different Gendron options (thinner wall 1.25" hollow, thicker wall 1.25" 1.25" solid, 1.375" hollow)

I have the 1.375" Gendron, and I've been happy with it, although after 2 years of autox and DD the endlinks are making noise and need to be replaced. I also only run it on 4/6 in terms of stiffness. Most people who run a Gendron bar at full stiff have issues with destroying the steering rack boots.

Guy Ankeny (of Ankeny Racing Enterprises, google it) makes a nice adjustable bar for the S2000 as well. It is, however, quite expensive (around the same as a 1.375" hollow Gendron).

 

I think saner on full soft is gonna give you the balance you want

if you preload the bar like it says the endlinks don't rattle much

 

I never understand comments like this one. It's not like the laws of physics changed and 1.25" solid sway bars suddenly work differently now than they did last year.

 

Does anybody have weight differences between the Saner, Gendron (1.25" and 1.375" hollow), and stock?

 

Not sure yet about the tires. Probably just street tires at first and then maybe r-compounds if/when I can save up for an extra set of wheels/tires.

Definitely the 1.25" solid. Too cheap to pony up for any of the others, plus I'm pretty sure they'd be overkill for me.

Yeah I saw that bar too, but I think it's a bit out of my price range.

Really? I read some posts saying that, but I thought it might be their driving style. Guess it just surprises me that the minimum setting can have such a profound effect.

[QUOTE=PedalFaster,May 25 2010, 04:51 PM]I never understand comments like this one.

 

I sold my 1.25" solid Gendron bar last year and replaced it with the 1.375" hollow bar. With 245 Hoosier A6s on all 4 corners and an otherwise stock suspension the 1.25" solid wasn't enough.

 

Wasn't "enough" for what? Was there any oversteer left with the 1.25" solid Gendron bar? As I said in my original post, eliminating as much of the oversteer as possible without inducing understeer is really all I'm trying to accomplish. Not looking for a nationals championship setup or anything...

 

The issue of not running "enough" bar is getting rear wheel lift. From what I've heard, the 1.25" solid isn't enough on a stock AP1 on Hoosiers. Maybe it will be ok if you have shocks, but I don't know for certain.

 

If you wish to reinvent the wheel, more power to you. The 1.375 is whats proven on AP1s. To argue differently is going against alot of data from knowledgeable S2000 drivers. The 1.375 is the way to go. Its also supposed to be lighter than the 1.25 solid. The AP1v1 front springs are too soft to prevent you from lifting the rear wheel in many auto-x situations. Even with high compression shocks and the 1.375, some have still reported lift. Any more and you are going to induce too much push. You will start loosing more time than you gain back. No one has gone any further except for Ankeny. Listen to these guys, after all, you asked. If you disagree, use this data and prove us wrong with something that will help us all. So far, this is the best info.

-Marc