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Setting non staggered

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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 10:46 PM
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tsukubaSpec's Avatar
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Default Setting non staggered

Hey guys, any recommendation for allignment and damper adjustment,
2004 ap2 N/A
tein dampers with 16k spring all around,cusco sway bar up front ( roughly 650lbs), oem ap2 rear sway) could disconnect rear sway bar if needed) buddy club fr/re RCA, 285 rirezza zII all around, voltex 1700gt wing,custom cf splitter / oem CR lip.
Taking the car for a shakedown in 2 weeks at the Ridge in the washington state and would like to hear what you guys recommend.
Cheers
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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For someone who runs a "race prep" shop this is honestly the last thing I'd expect you to ask. But-

Keep the settings the same fr and rear, or go slightly softer in the front by 2 clicks. The car is going to push, but it shouldn't be too bad. Start with minimal wing angle. I'd run closer to stiff than soft on the shock settings.

Let us know how it goes. And if you have any rubbing.


Edit: Alignment: -3-3.5 camber Fr/R. 6 degrees caster or higher front, 1/8th" of toe total in the rear. 0 toe front.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 11:18 AM
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Softer up front to make it push?
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO
Softer up front to make it push?
Opposite actually, softer up front will help gain more grip for turn in but that rear wing + that front bar is going to cause understeer no matter how you cut it. Even a wingless AP1 with a cusco bar will understeer given the right shock settings. It's amazing how much your balance can differ with the bar being used up front. I've had good experience with this bar, the saner, and now the Eibach on my personal car and a few of my friends cars. I have a fair idea of what his car will handle like, hence the suggestions above.

You either need serious front aero (difficult on this car imo) or some other means to balance this out. We're talking canards, vortex generators or fender louvres, vented hood and a largre splitter/bumper with lip.

Then you have his 285 tire size square on an N/A powered car (albeit possibly a light weight car) and who knows what could happen. It'll be interesting to see his findings.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sebring AP1
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1409253525' post='23306307
Softer up front to make it push?
Opposite actually, softer up front will help gain more grip for turn in but that rear wing + that front bar is going to cause understeer no matter how you cut it. Even a wingless AP1 with a cusco bar will understeer given the right shock settings. It's amazing how much your balance can differ with the bar being used up front. I've had good experience with this bar, the saner, and now the Eibach on my personal car and a few of my friends cars. I have a fair idea of what his car will handle like, hence the suggestions above.
The way I originally read it:

"go slightly softer in the front by 2 clicks. The car is going to push"

I didn't even look to see he had a rear wing and you were trying to get more traction up front. That's why I was questioning the thought process.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sebring AP1
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1409253525' post='23306307
Softer up front to make it push?
Opposite actually, softer up front will help gain more grip for turn in but that rear wing + that front bar is going to cause understeer no matter how you cut it. Even a wingless AP1 with a cusco bar will understeer given the right shock settings. It's amazing how much your balance can differ with the bar being used up front. I've had good experience with this bar, the saner, and now the Eibach on my personal car and a few of my friends cars. I have a fair idea of what his car will handle like, hence the suggestions above.

You either need serious front aero (difficult on this car imo) or some other means to balance this out. We're talking canards, vortex generators or fender louvres, vented hood and a largre splitter/bumper with lip.

Then you have his 285 tire size square on an N/A powered car (albeit possibly a light weight car) and who knows what could happen. It'll be interesting to see his findings.


This car has some pretty serious front aero with more to come if I am not mistaken, should be interesting to see how it all works out. I think 285 tires will make it pretty numb to drive without more power but I am glad it is making it out of the shop and onto the track.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks guys, i wont have this crazy aero to start, only cr lip and big splitter, i do have vented hood, with some custom cf flaps and also some fender louvers.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tsukubaSpec
Thanks guys, i wont have this crazy aero to start, only cr lip and big splitter, i do have vented hood, with some custom cf flaps and also some fender louvers.

Please check back with your findings and let us know what works for you. WIll you be using a data logger or pyrometer? My guess is you'll want more front camber than rear so everything heats up evenly. Either that or you're going to use less camber due to the tire size in order to get it to heat up. The 285 tire size is going to be the big unknown factor for me to just guess on so I am genuinely curious to see what you find will work.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Yes looking into buying a pyrometer, lots of people are saying -3.5-3.0 would be too much camber for those 285's. I was thinking going -3 up front and 2.5 rear to start. My alligmnent is next saturday, so im trying to collect the more feedback/opinions from you guys and will decide on the setting that day.
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