Shocks for STR
Originally Posted by captain_pants,Aug 6 2010, 12:54 PM
Quick summary of Jan Z's book:
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.
Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
Great stuff
Originally Posted by captain_pants,Aug 6 2010, 11:54 AM
Quick summary of Jan Z's book:
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.
Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
lol...compression dumping
Originally Posted by captain_pants,Aug 6 2010, 11:54 AM
Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
Anyway, the point is, everyone likes different stuff, and I'm fatter than Corey so the 34-38 belt fits me fine
[QUOTE=captain_pants,Aug 6 2010, 11:54 AM] If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range.
I have until march to save and order shocks so its not a rush rush thing right this second. Although after nationals I would love to see what the top 3 guys are running and what springs and valving they are using.



