Shocks for STR
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by TheNick,Aug 6 2010, 08:15 AM
The TC's are twin tube.
Yes ProParts can do that. So can Performance Shock - call and talk to Bruce.
Both Jeff at ProParts and Bruce at PSI are great people. You can also try Jamie at SRP Engineering - all of these people will present you with options if you tell them what you want and what your budget is. In fact I'd call all 3 just to see who does the best job of making you feel comfortable with your purchase.
I'd seriously look into something like a Penske that can be continuously upgraded over time - you can start a Rebound only adjustable shock for around $2500 - then next year add the compression reservoirs if you feel its necessary. Jamie at SRP can help you with Penske's - he's good people.
Yes ProParts can do that. So can Performance Shock - call and talk to Bruce.
Both Jeff at ProParts and Bruce at PSI are great people. You can also try Jamie at SRP Engineering - all of these people will present you with options if you tell them what you want and what your budget is. In fact I'd call all 3 just to see who does the best job of making you feel comfortable with your purchase.
I'd seriously look into something like a Penske that can be continuously upgraded over time - you can start a Rebound only adjustable shock for around $2500 - then next year add the compression reservoirs if you feel its necessary. Jamie at SRP can help you with Penske's - he's good people.
I read on this forum about them alittle...
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2757027
this guys came like this...
without the welded on mounts. I would want a bolt bolt in solution. Your running 700f/600r springs right?
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Nick is using custom penskes with Fox compression canisters.
The other modular option is AST, but like has mentioned, they might frustrate you, but Brian Hanchey seems to really try to make sure the customers are happy. I think they are starting to get it, but I'm not sure.
The other modular option is AST, but like has mentioned, they might frustrate you, but Brian Hanchey seems to really try to make sure the customers are happy. I think they are starting to get it, but I'm not sure.
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From: Frankfort, KY
I just called parts pro and taked to jeff and for the 3011's with str valving, coilover kit, pillowballs mounts, upper perches, and springs it will be $2800 plus shipping. he said he would compare the other str valvings they have done to come up with a valving for me. it will come all put togeather ready to go on the car. What do you think?
sorry I mis-interperted nicks post saying "the 30's we use" as he actually has the 30's. I think I'm gonna go with the 3011's hopefully it works out go for me
sorry I mis-interperted nicks post saying "the 30's we use" as he actually has the 30's. I think I'm gonna go with the 3011's hopefully it works out go for me
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by ghostshadow,Aug 6 2010, 12:01 PM
i'd seriously consider nick's suggestion for upgrade-ability
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From: Frankfort, KY
Originally Posted by ghostshadow,Aug 6 2010, 12:09 PM
before you pull the trigger- i'd suggest reading this:
Vehicle dynamics and damping by Jan Zuijdijk
it will answer all of your questions and then some
Vehicle dynamics and damping by Jan Zuijdijk
it will answer all of your questions and then some
I found that book on amozon for 12.25 shipped (used) so I orded it. Looks like I have 6 books now to read this winter.
what model Penske single adjustables do I need to look into that upgrade into the 8100's? If the singles are around 2500 thats in my price range but I don't have 4k for shocks right off lol
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you'll want remote res monotube after reading that. haha. but it will help you understand the differences between monotube non-res and res, twintube, etc.
in the big picture, hardware only gets you so far. driving will be the difference between winning and not. autox schools/seat time..
in the big picture, hardware only gets you so far. driving will be the difference between winning and not. autox schools/seat time..
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by josh7owens,Aug 6 2010, 09:13 AM
what model Penske single adjustables do I need to look into that upgrade into the 8100's? If the singles are around 2500 thats in my price range but I don't have 4k for shocks right off lol
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Quick summary of Jan Z's book:
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.
Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.
- Has you tried more low-speed compression damping? You should, it's make you fasterer.
- Is you car have understeering? Add more low-spaed comparession damping!
- Does your car oversteering? Add more low-speed compression dumping!
I exagerate greatly but that's really the main point; grammar, spelling and all. I did learn a lot about the inner workings of shocks but it's not something that will help you pick one damper curve over another.Get either something that's proven by top drivers (generally those who have done well at Nationals) or something that you can easily get revalved if/when you don't like it. I had an extremely frustrating 2009 season trying to find usable settings on my Penske 8300s valved to SRP's 'proven' specs. In the end I went with a completely different valving this spring (about 1/2 their recommended high-speed rebound forces!) against their recommendation and the car is MUCH easier to drive.
Poor valving will turn a $800 shock into something that doesn't perform as well as the stock shocks. Sure, it'll be very repeatable and accurate, but not in the range of what's good. Figuring out what's 'poor' and what's 'good' is tough. I think you just have to try it and learn from your mistakes.
Now I think of shocks the same way as a belt. You know, the kind you use to hold up those pants that are a little too big. If you buy a Kevlar/stainless steel/flame retardent belt with a built in GPS, it may have an infinite range of positions over a given range. But if it's sized for a 34-38" waist when you have a 30" waist, it doesn't matter how well it's made - it's just not going to work.
If I were buying new right now I'd save up for Motons. If I couldn't afford those after saving for a year, the revalved Koni Sports seem to be well liked when using the stiffest compression valving they offer.