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Shop to Re-Valve KW V3?

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Old 12-30-2012, 09:23 AM
  #111  
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This is the S2000 rear V3 shock, not much room for shortening between the shock body and bottom suspension mount.




The front shock would be much easier to shorten that way:

Old 12-30-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by robrob
I think you're using the motorcycle definition of shock droop, where I was talking about full droop, like when the car's up on stands and the shock is near full extension.

I'm confused here, adding plastic washers or collars to the piston rod above the piston will simply shorten the max extension of the shock, right?
It is same for bikes and cars. It is shock independent from vehicle.
Take 2 shocks, one with washer in it and one without. At full extension the one with washer will be shorter. Now put 500# spring on each shock and set it with 0 preload, collar to hat at exact length of the spring. Install them on car and see which car will be lower.
Lets say car weight compresses 500# spring by 2". It will do same on both shocks since you have same preload. So, droop is same. Travel left for compression is not.
Old 12-30-2012, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SSS
Would this work ? I'm no engineer but thinking it may.
Ride height adjustable shocks have clevice that screws in to or out of body.
You could also cut them of and weld new ones on with mount hole in different place (there is some room there between clevice and arm. Or even two holes so you can go back and forth in ride height.
On bikes we do either with clevice or by moving shock mount on frame (spacers). One thing we never do is adjust ride height with spring preload. This is why I don't like helper spring set up on car.
Old 12-30-2012, 12:07 PM
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Take 2 shocks, one with washer in it and one without. At full extension the one with washer will be shorter
Shorter length at full extension isn't what we need on the S2000. It doesn't help keep a lowered car off the bump stops. What Steve wants is a shorter shock at full compression because when we lower the car the piston goes deeper into the shock.
Old 12-30-2012, 12:13 PM
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That is why they use stiffer springs. Stiffer the spring less travel you will use and so can lower car more with that same shock.
Old 12-30-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TWF
That is why they use stiffer springs. Stiffer the spring less travel you will use and so can lower car more with that same shock.
OK, I see what you're saying now.
Old 12-30-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TWF
That is why they use stiffer springs. Stiffer the spring less travel you will use and so can lower car more with that same shock.
Absolutely true and if you could get the rates up enough you'd probably be alright with these running the off the shelf rates but I don't think going up 100lbs on the springs would be enough to keep you off the stops. Our cars only really have major problems in the rear when running the car low. If I got another set of KWs it would be the Clubsports which are 570lbs all around. I'd probably end up running 750/650 rates on them and that increase out back isn't a whole lot. Probably would cut the bumpstops a tad shorter too but I just don't know if that would help on really big bumps.

I've been really happy with my KWs in the past though so I'm not ready to right them off yet.
Old 12-30-2012, 06:24 PM
  #118  
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Maybe we can talk Sillyboy in to bringing one of his clubsports to open it up and see what difference is compared to V3
Old 12-30-2012, 09:08 PM
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LOL nah cant do that, I just put them on, maybe in a year or two
Old 12-31-2012, 04:38 AM
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TWF, do you think you'll be able to revalved the KWs?

I'm actually considering picking up a set of Clubsports that are still new in the box. I won't have an immediate need to get them on the car so I could possibly send them your way.


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