Shop to Re-Valve KW V3?
12-29-2012, 07:47 PM
#103
Now if you could also figure out how to successfully shorten the shock body for us guys that run fairly low that'd be awesome! Mostly the rears. That is also one of the only things that makes me not want to get another set of KWs
12-29-2012, 07:53 PM
#105
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Could also cut bottom clevis and reweld it. Shortening shock body is not easy, you got threads and you have to watch for shaft travel.
12-29-2012, 08:47 PM
#106
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Originally Posted by //steve\\' timestamp='1356842821' post='22236400
Now if you could also figure out how to successfully shorten the shock body for us guys that run fairly low that'd be awesome! Mostly the rears. That is also one of the only things that makes me not want to get another set of KWs
Could also cut bottom clevis and reweld it. Shortening shock body is not easy, you got threads and you have to watch for shaft travel.
12-29-2012, 08:49 PM
#107
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I have a web page on how the V3 shock works here: http://robrobinette.com/S2000KWV3.htm
It's been edited with the info we have so far from TWF's tear down.
It's been edited with the info we have so far from TWF's tear down.
12-29-2012, 09:20 PM
#108
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The plastic washers on the piston rod shorten the full droop length of the shock. Steve wants a shorter shock body so he can lower the rear of the car more and stay off the shock bump stops. To do that I believe you'd have to shorten both the shock body and piston rod. If so it would be very difficult and expensive.
If you shorten piston rod with spacer but use same spring preload your shock will compress same amount but you starting with less length. Your car will sit lower and droop will be same but you will hit bumper sooner. Basically you have shorter stroke.
If you shorten body and rod you keep same stroke, as long you don't hit bottom, but may run wheel in to fender. Same with cutting and rewelding clevice, same stroke but less wheel/fender clearance.
In both cases you may need stiffer spring to compensate.
12-30-2012, 04:35 AM
#109
Former Moderator
Thread Starter
Preload on spring shortens droop, spacer inside does not. More preload you put on spring less droop you get.
If you shorten piston rod with spacer but use same spring preload your shock will compress same amount but you starting with less length. Your car will sit lower and droop will be same but you will hit bumper sooner. Basically you have shorter stroke.
If you shorten body and rod you keep same stroke, as long you don't hit bottom, but may run wheel in to fender. Same with cutting and rewelding clevice, same stroke but less wheel/fender clearance.
In both cases you may need stiffer spring to compensate.
If you shorten piston rod with spacer but use same spring preload your shock will compress same amount but you starting with less length. Your car will sit lower and droop will be same but you will hit bumper sooner. Basically you have shorter stroke.
If you shorten body and rod you keep same stroke, as long you don't hit bottom, but may run wheel in to fender. Same with cutting and rewelding clevice, same stroke but less wheel/fender clearance.
In both cases you may need stiffer spring to compensate.
I'm confused here, adding plastic washers or collars to the piston rod above the piston will simply shorten the max extension of the shock, right?
12-30-2012, 07:50 AM
#110
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Originally Posted by //steve\\' timestamp='1356842821' post='22236400
Now if you could also figure out how to successfully shorten the shock body for us guys that run fairly low that'd be awesome! Mostly the rears. That is also one of the only things that makes me not want to get another set of KWs