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Solutions for Cracking Rotors on Track?

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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:09 AM
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Default Solutions for Cracking Rotors on Track?

I run OEM brake rotors and calipers with Raybestos ST-43 racing pads on road courses. I have had multiple problems with front rotors cracking, and am getting sick of losing track time because of it.

What is the solution? Brake ducting? Is that enough, or do I also need a big brake kit with better rotors? If so, which kit? Thanks.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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ducting with the oem setup is generally the cheaper way to go. bbk also takes care of the problem and you don't need to add ducting.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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I think it depends on driving style. I have never cracked a rotor and I just added ducting. I noticed at ACS it helped with fade later in the sessions. The flip side is a driver like Mike who can crack 2 sets in a day. Some say its all about the cool down after getting off track, but if its a cronic problem for you Richard maybe a BBK is the only way to stop this.

I remember reading about the Science of Speed rotors that have a better venting design. I haven't heard about anyone running them but maybe its worth a look before you jump into a BBK?
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:28 AM
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I don't believe ducting actually helps with rotor life. It does help with pad, front wheel bearing, and caliper life though. RacingBrake.com's upgraded discs last me a full track season (24 days) when I used to crack rotors every weekend. A front big brake kit is the ultimate answer though.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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The only true fix is a BBK. The initial cost turns off a lot of people, especially since ~2000 can purchase close to 40 rotors, or a whole lot of pad, or a combination of. However, looking strictly from a ROI and time point of view, I believe a BBK is ultimately worth it.

~2000+ initial investment
- double pad life (roughly) at marginally higher cost
- Rotors should last a year, possibly more
- Saved time due to not changing rotors
- Saved time due to being able to swap pads faster (not that stock takes very long at all)

- ability to recoup the majority of the initial investments upon selling the BBK. (~1500+)


I believe ducting will still help with pad life, although to a smaller degree. Wheel bearing life would be extended as well.

Richard, if you're serious about a BBK, I've been trying to get a group buy together that will realistically happen close to the end of the year with enough interest and commitment.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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So are you all saying if I'm willing to shell out for a BBK, I don't need to bother with ducting?
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by robrob
RacingBrake.com's upgraded discs last me a full track season (24 days) when I used to crack rotors every weekend.
what discs are those?
i'm getting lost at their web site....
http://www.racingbrake.com/SearchRes...p?Search=s2000
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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I think the PF 2pc upgrade would be the best option for a NA car. 1/3 the price of a BBK.
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cracknut
I think the PF 2pc upgrade would be the best option for a NA car. 1/3 the price of a BBK.
Is it even out yet? I just remember Billy 'leaking' the info and then it died...
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Haven't ordered myself:
http://topbrakes.com/carSeriesDetail...2+HONDA+S2000+

Originally Posted by takchi
Originally Posted by cracknut' timestamp='1314736211' post='20928511
I think the PF 2pc upgrade would be the best option for a NA car. 1/3 the price of a BBK.
Is it even out yet? I just remember Billy 'leaking' the info and then it died...
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