i got my second set from SA and the first set came from evasive.

 

Did the first fail?

 

install went rather smooth, except i installed em backwards LOL.

 

We can also have these air shipped in as well.

 

I ordered mine from PPI (J's racing USA) on a Thursday and had them at my doorstep the following Tuesday. No lie
http://j-sracingusa.com/contact.html

 

This is something we've done as well for many of our customers who choose to air ship.

 

So I just thought I'd report that I just got back from the alignment shop and I have the J's S2 joints up front. Somehow I had one on backwards (must have gotten flipped around while I installed it), and the camber maxed out at 0 degrees. Then I flipped it around to the right way and camber was still maxed out and it was at -4.5 degrees - so that's about the max you can get. Also that implies that it adds a little over 2 degrees of camber from stock. I adjusted it down to -3 degrees and it still had adjustment left.My car has just a hair under a 13" gap from fender to center of hub.

By the way I also got mine from SpeedAlliance when no one had them and they drop shipped them from japan and I got them the next day. I was very happy with the service there.

 

Hey Guys,

Instead of going with uber expensive JDM bling J's, or the pain-in-the-arse-to-install SPC joints, there is a third option that is as good as the J's and almost as cheap as the SPC: Hard Race. Someone had mentioned it briefly earlier, but I can't believe no one went and tried to buy a set. I did some research on Hard Race, and they make a LOT of suspension stuff for other cars as well. The civic guys seem happy with their products for track work. So I bought a set, and they look EXACTLY like the J's racing L1 (NOT the S1, but the more expensive L1 WITH the roll center adjusting brackets). I haven't gotten an alignment with them yet, but just eyeballing it it looks like I got about 2 degrees more with it, so I should be at around 4 degrees of camber. I took some pics of the parts before I installed it, but need to host them somewhere. Here is the pic from hardrace:



I think I'd get in trouble with the mods (mods, is it ok if i post the shop and the price?) if I posted a website and a price, so let's just say that they are less than HALF the price of the J's L1 joints, and about the same price or slightly more than the SPCs. If you'd like more info, just PM me and I'll tell you how much and where it get it.

James

 

I bought these hardrace offset ball joints on ebay for $210 plus $15 for shipping. They are hardrace part number 6621. They are not available right now but look for them periodically from ebay seller dohcgarage. I plan on installing them this coming weekend.

 

Would have tried the hard race pieces earlier if I saw the post. As mentioned, I ordered my J's S1 from Speed Alliance, great service and took about a week from Japan.

Got them installed, pretty straight forward and easier than I thought. My biggest hang up was the ensuring they were on the right way. Common sense would dictate that the joint should be pushing the knuckle out. Given that so many people had installed it backwards, I second guessed myself. Easiest way to remember: the J's Racing logo and etched part number face the inside of the car (thanks Edwin). Also, the ball joint remover I bought was way too small, so the method described in page 1 was a life saver.

0. Jack car up and put on jack stands
1. Remove upper A-Arm
2. Removed my damper
3. Re-attached upper A-Arm
4. Jacked up control arm assembly, wedged 3/8s Craftsman ratchet handle between oem ball joint and lower control arm (as seen in video in the first page).
5. Quickly drop the jack, passenger side popped out right away, driver side took a few downward kicks (depends on how well you get the wrench wedged in there).
6. Remove OEM ball joint
7. Replace with J's ball joint. Not sure if this order was correct, but it worked best for me:
-Use jack to raise control arm assembly (minus the lower control arm)
-Install two screws that connect the J's ball joint to knuckle (tighten with wrench)
-Have a friend lower the jack slowly, you will have to pull down on the lower control arm and maneuver the jack slightly to allow the ball joint to seat (takes a few tries)
-Tighten castle nut, install cotter pin.
8. Torque 2 knuckle screws and castle nut to spec
9. Re-install damper (removing a-arm as before)
10. Re attach a-arm, lower bolt to damper, torque everything, beer.