I cracked a pair of racing brake front vented rotors. They were new and cracked on the first track day. Stock power level. I wouldn't buy them again, their customer service sucked pretty bad too.

 

See, thats what I want to know!

bbk it is

 

First...which rotors were they...and most importantly, where they floating rotors (relieving stress between the hub and rotor)?

Second, where they cryogenicly treated? The rotor on the S2k can have less mass than needed on a track with significant braking.

Third, where did they have ducting? While mass allows the rotor to absorb the energy from braking, cooling get the temperature back down before it heats up on the next braking event.

Which track did this occur at?

 

I'm 'm still a NOOB and bought my car with the Stoptech ST-40 aka 328 four caliper BBK already on it in January and they have these nifty two-piece slotted rotors.

I just pounded them mercilessly on the 2,000 mile Dragon Trip, hundreds of miles near the limit, many big braking events, one time could have bought the farm by myself coming home on an unknown, twisty mountain road (out looking for more fun heading to Roanoke) and I'll just say I thought this upgrade was every bit as good as my four wheel, four caliper Brembo's on my V70R. I'm going to do some track days so we'll see just how much they can take but so far, I'm very, very happy. Hoping the rotors (without the hats) are reasonable, should be interesting fun swapping over the hats.

 

You wouldn't really see an issue unless you were quickly burning off a lot of speed on the brakes repeatedly. If the application isn't hard enough (longer time), enough speed isn't lost (energy transmitted to the rotor), and it is repeated frequently enough (preventing the rotor from cooling) the brakes won't hit that high a temperature.

 

You'd be surprised. I cracked my first rotor recently on a momentum track, and I only used the brakes twice a lap. Once from 125-80 and another time from 110-50, a lap takes me 1.18. It cracked right after lunch.

Mind you I'm on 205 street tires, stock suspension. etc. I'm already cracking rotors, going 255, especially in a slick isnt going to help my situation at all.

And I'm pretty sure he cracked an RB rotor. As for cryoing, some guys swear by it, others say its snake oil. Havent personally tried it. The guys at On Edge Performance swore by it in combination with Girodisc's .

 

It sounds like you have something else going on. Have you checked the runout on the rotor and the alignment of the caliper?

 

They were the racing brake OEM sized 2-piece floating rotor. I did not have any ducting. I don't know if they are cryogenically treated, I can't remember. It's been awhile, but you could look it up on the racing brake website. This was at Thunderhill, and my pace was around 2:10.

 

Which brand where they?

With the indicated relatively light braking the failure is either installation-related or a product defect. Ducting, floating rotors, and cryo treatments are ways to avoid heavy use related problems.

 

I've said twice already.. The brand is racing brake.
Edit: here's the link to the product: http://www.racingbrake.com/S2000-FRONT-00-09-p/2081.htm
I was using the open-slot disk, p/n: D204-02-0381