View Poll Results: Wha intake do you currently use for STR?
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STR Prep - Intake • From DIY to Mugen
03-05-2012, 08:09 AM
#31
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modded my stock intake. Removed unneeded sound resonator and some other material. Made a 2" snorkle to the fender using a couple 90deg plastic pipe couplers ~$8 home depot. New AFE air filter is in the Mail($85). About a $100 CAI/Icebox. The carbon plate is the AUT version which is $140. Not the cheapest or best but I like the functionality and looks. And yes, the OEM radiator shroud thing is still in place. The car sounds a pulls a little better than stock.
Next up is trying to insulate the intake a little more. I have some Kevlar from work that we can no longer use so I might give it a go. I've researched a little on replacing the stock tube but that's last on my list of things to do. I think I can get it done for under $60 though with materials.
Next up is trying to insulate the intake a little more. I have some Kevlar from work that we can no longer use so I might give it a go. I've researched a little on replacing the stock tube but that's last on my list of things to do. I think I can get it done for under $60 though with materials.
03-05-2012, 09:35 AM
#32
Originally Posted by glagola1' timestamp='1330699115' post='21469400
Hell if I know. I don't think it really matters. We're only talking about a few HP. It's not going to make you win or loose. I think there are better areas to focus on; suspension and alignment are probably the most important.
If you ask Nick Barbato, he'd probably tell you a few hundredths are worth pursuing
03-05-2012, 11:07 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by Johnx' timestamp='1330622272' post='21466398
[attachment=17247:P1000407.jpg]
I thought I would offer this homemade job. The cone is turned from solid polyethylene. the tubing is aircraft scat tube. I used the stock intake tube from the filter to the manifold.
The main difference is that the intake air comes in through a custom CF tube that runs around the radiator to bring in cold air. I made this tube by wrapping CF into a tube shape, with Al foil on the outside so it wouldn't stick. Then after it was in place next to the radiator, I blew up a ballon inside to make it as large as possible. After it cured, I had to loosen the radiator to get it out, clean it up, and reinstall it.
This is the third version I have built. Each time I tested it using the data logging built into Hondata. I would do a 3rd gear run from 1500 rpm to 8400, watching MAP to make sure there is no drop (loss of intake pressure). Also, of course, I watched air intake temp. This version runs over 20 dF cooler than stock on a road course, and is within a degree or two of ambient. The heat soak of autocross is another story.
I would like to see someone do this sort of testing with the K&N and the other intakes.
John
I thought I would offer this homemade job. The cone is turned from solid polyethylene. the tubing is aircraft scat tube. I used the stock intake tube from the filter to the manifold.
The main difference is that the intake air comes in through a custom CF tube that runs around the radiator to bring in cold air. I made this tube by wrapping CF into a tube shape, with Al foil on the outside so it wouldn't stick. Then after it was in place next to the radiator, I blew up a ballon inside to make it as large as possible. After it cured, I had to loosen the radiator to get it out, clean it up, and reinstall it.
This is the third version I have built. Each time I tested it using the data logging built into Hondata. I would do a 3rd gear run from 1500 rpm to 8400, watching MAP to make sure there is no drop (loss of intake pressure). Also, of course, I watched air intake temp. This version runs over 20 dF cooler than stock on a road course, and is within a degree or two of ambient. The heat soak of autocross is another story.
I would like to see someone do this sort of testing with the K&N and the other intakes.
John
The key is that the smallest part as it goes by the radiator is 2x4", or 8 sq. in. The 3" inlet of the intake manifold is 7 sq. in. so that is still the smallest restriction in the system.
I hope this helps.
John
03-05-2012, 12:12 PM
#35
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The black steel bracket that holds the front bumper on gets replaced by the cooling plate. It's probably lighter and definitely a different looking piece, but no different than switching out a OEM swaybar end link for and aftermarket one, they serve the same function. The bracket just looks different.. .
I'll admit, it's not going to add much performance at most AutoX speeds. The radiator fans likely create a enough pull through of air through the radiator that there probably wont be any "ram" air effects going through the small slits that are in the OEM radiator shroud. But I'm mainly in it for the idea of the intake now pulling in air that hasn't already been heat soaked by the engine bay. I'd say the 2" ducting is necessary with this AUT plate to make 100% sure you're not actually choking the intake. As the guy mentioned in the above post, the manifold is still only 3" round. I now have the OEM inlet pluss the 2" inlet to provide air. I was thinking of doing a 3rd pipe from either the bottom or driver side of the box to the other fender but decided it would just be extra weight.. .
I did run the AUT plate with the OEM, unaltered intake, without the 2" ducting and their wasn't any ill effects over stock but there definitely wasn't any but dyno effects either.
03-05-2012, 01:12 PM
#36
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Just installed the PRM earlier today. Easy breezy. Whole thing weighs about 3-4lbs. At first was unsure what to do with the little air pump solenoid, but I had an extra hose clamp so I just clamped it and the hoses to the intake piping. Biggest impression so far is the off idle response. With stock air box I would occasionally get almost a bog off idle. That is gone. Seems to rev faster with this intake. In the future I may wrap the crap out of the metal portion with some DEI heat wrap. Also probably gonna rig up a pipe to the fender hole, although that area is basically dead space so I dont see where it can get any fresh air from. We will see.
03-05-2012, 01:43 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by legend4life' timestamp='1330701186' post='21469538
[quote name='glagola1' timestamp='1330699115' post='21469400']
Hell if I know. I don't think it really matters. We're only talking about a few HP. It's not going to make you win or loose. I think there are better areas to focus on; suspension and alignment are probably the most important.
Hell if I know. I don't think it really matters. We're only talking about a few HP. It's not going to make you win or loose. I think there are better areas to focus on; suspension and alignment are probably the most important.
If you ask Nick Barbato, he'd probably tell you a few hundredths are worth pursuing
[/quote]
All the above is true, helps pet things into perspective. I need to focus on developing suspension/alignment. And driver, lol.
03-05-2012, 02:02 PM
#38
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I'm not concerned much about the weight.
03-10-2012, 07:34 PM
#39
Has anybody actually done an A/B test on the FIPK? My initial testing shows the gains of the FIPK are almost exactly that of the switch from a dirty OE filter to a K&N filter element. I ran my car with the OE airbox and OE filter, OE airbox and K&N filter, then the K&N FIPK. The bulk of the power comes from the intake forcing the tune leaner.
OE header
Berk 70mm cat pipe
T1R 70-EM cat back
TODA timing, revised fueling, 3750 VTEC
I'll continue testing, though, as the temperature and baro were changing rapidly and cause the numbers to be suspect.
OE header
Berk 70mm cat pipe
T1R 70-EM cat back
TODA timing, revised fueling, 3750 VTEC
I'll continue testing, though, as the temperature and baro were changing rapidly and cause the numbers to be suspect.
09-25-2012, 09:24 PM
#40
=============== STR Threads ===============
STR Prep - Suspension and Alignment
STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
STR Prep - Differential Discussion
STR Prep - ECU and Tuning Discusson
STR Prep - Wheels and Tires
STR Prep - Exhuast (tip to tail)
STR Prep - Weight Reduction
STR Prep - Sway Bars
SCCA Solo - STR Rules Discussion ---> (Debate rules and proposals here...)
STR Prep - AP1 vs AP2v1 vs AP2v2 vs CR
STR Prep - Intake • from DIY to Mugen
STR Engine Mounts
=============== STR Threads ===============
Making this thread as a continuation of the one murderedrsx created with the addition of a poll and all the links for easy navigation. Here is a link to that thread: STR Prep - Air Intakes
Be sure to vote in the poll for your intake. If yours or other intake is missing send me a PM and I will add it.
--------------------------------------------------
I used and tuned with the K&N FIPK for 2012. When tuning on the dyno my tuner (Tony) at UMS Tuning in Tempe, AZ had a feeling that the K&N intake was restricting flow. Discussion with other STR drivers revealed that they got better tuning results with the stock intake tube over the K&N and other CAIs. Two of those were Robert Thorne and Bob Endicott. Both did dyno comparisons and both have AP2s, so it will have to seen if the same holds true for an AP1?
For 2013 I purchased a Mugen Replica intake off ebay for $270. This intake works with the stock intake tube and is obviously a lot less than the real Mugen intake which is in the $1,700 range.
Since the intake needs to be cut to clear the hood I did not feel so bad cutting up the ebay replica. Bob Endicot has the real deal and cut his for STR. His is cut square along the front edge of the radiator and sealed with foam insulation across the beam in front of the radiator from fender to fender. This enforces air being drawn from in front of the radiator. So I have to thank Bob for the idea of using the Mugen and cutting it up to make it work. I have been considering options for use with the stock intake tube.
In my case I cut just enough of the intake to allow the hood to close. See photo. I plan to use thin neoprene foam around the opening to help seal it to the hood. Eventually I will take the car for a tuning session to optimize for this intake. I will likely do a back to back comparison with the K&N to see if there really is a difference.
--------------------------------------------------
Modified Mugen Replica - September 2012
Modified to clear hood, weighs less than 3.5 lbs. Dyno results TBD, early next year is the plan.
K&N FIPK - August 2011
Modified Stock Box - Early 2011 (never tuned with this one)
--------------------------------------------------
STR Prep - Suspension and Alignment
STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
STR Prep - Differential Discussion
STR Prep - ECU and Tuning Discusson
STR Prep - Wheels and Tires
STR Prep - Exhuast (tip to tail)
STR Prep - Weight Reduction
STR Prep - Sway Bars
SCCA Solo - STR Rules Discussion ---> (Debate rules and proposals here...)
STR Prep - AP1 vs AP2v1 vs AP2v2 vs CR
STR Prep - Intake • from DIY to Mugen
STR Engine Mounts
=============== STR Threads ===============
Making this thread as a continuation of the one murderedrsx created with the addition of a poll and all the links for easy navigation. Here is a link to that thread: STR Prep - Air Intakes
Be sure to vote in the poll for your intake. If yours or other intake is missing send me a PM and I will add it.
--------------------------------------------------
I used and tuned with the K&N FIPK for 2012. When tuning on the dyno my tuner (Tony) at UMS Tuning in Tempe, AZ had a feeling that the K&N intake was restricting flow. Discussion with other STR drivers revealed that they got better tuning results with the stock intake tube over the K&N and other CAIs. Two of those were Robert Thorne and Bob Endicott. Both did dyno comparisons and both have AP2s, so it will have to seen if the same holds true for an AP1?
For 2013 I purchased a Mugen Replica intake off ebay for $270. This intake works with the stock intake tube and is obviously a lot less than the real Mugen intake which is in the $1,700 range.
Since the intake needs to be cut to clear the hood I did not feel so bad cutting up the ebay replica. Bob Endicot has the real deal and cut his for STR. His is cut square along the front edge of the radiator and sealed with foam insulation across the beam in front of the radiator from fender to fender. This enforces air being drawn from in front of the radiator. So I have to thank Bob for the idea of using the Mugen and cutting it up to make it work. I have been considering options for use with the stock intake tube.
In my case I cut just enough of the intake to allow the hood to close. See photo. I plan to use thin neoprene foam around the opening to help seal it to the hood. Eventually I will take the car for a tuning session to optimize for this intake. I will likely do a back to back comparison with the K&N to see if there really is a difference.
--------------------------------------------------
Modified Mugen Replica - September 2012
Modified to clear hood, weighs less than 3.5 lbs. Dyno results TBD, early next year is the plan.
K&N FIPK - August 2011
Modified Stock Box - Early 2011 (never tuned with this one)
--------------------------------------------------