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STR Prep - Suspension and Alignment

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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #331  
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^At least it's a much better car.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:25 AM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by //steve\\
^At least it's a much better car.

Shhhh... Don't tell everyone
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #333  
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Yeah because the bright Apex Blue won't already
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #334  
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My tires only get used for autox (tire trailer).
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #335  
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Jon, you kill the outsides because you run no rear bar. The car pushes on decreasing radius huh. The car should be able to rotate off throttle during steady state. Throttle rotating leads to mistakes especially on exit.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:42 AM
  #336  
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So have we decided -2.4 camber is the new -3.5?
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:50 AM
  #337  
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Originally Posted by oinojo
Jon, you kill the outsides because you run no rear bar. The car pushes on decreasing radius huh. The car should be able to rotate off throttle during steady state. Throttle rotating leads to mistakes especially on exit.
Shhh.

Also, I'm a tard. Created a new thread for questions that really belong in here.

Couple of questions.

First, has there been any decision made on the legality of the SPC Camber Adjustment Ball-joints, either front or rear? I've come across random postings about them, just curious. I figure the standard now is the Hardrace / Megan Racing ones?

Second, in the rear, how much camber can be obtained typically from the stock adjusters (13in ride height)? If we went over to either the SPC or Megan joints in the rear, would that allow us to adjust camber without impacting toe (would save a lot of time on alignments)?

Thanks!

Copy & paste so we can keep the knowledge base in the right spot.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by oinojo
Jon, you kill the outsides because you run no rear bar. The car pushes on decreasing radius huh. The car should be able to rotate off throttle during steady state. Throttle rotating leads to mistakes especially on exit.
Would that kill the outsides in front because it's overloading the front tires? I am running a rear bar now and I don't seem to be getting the outside wear anymore (although other things changed too, namely z2 vs z1) so that meshes with what you're saying but is that the reason why?

Originally Posted by RyanDavies
Shhh.

Also, I'm a tard. Created a new thread for questions that really belong in here.

Couple of questions.

First, has there been any decision made on the legality of the SPC Camber Adjustment Ball-joints, either front or rear? I've come across random postings about them, just curious. I figure the standard now is the Hardrace / Megan Racing ones?

Second, in the rear, how much camber can be obtained typically from the stock adjusters (13in ride height)? If we went over to either the SPC or Megan joints in the rear, would that allow us to adjust camber without impacting toe (would save a lot of time on alignments)?

Thanks!

Copy & paste so we can keep the knowledge base in the right spot.
My understanding was the SPC is legal. I know the posts you're talking about that figured out that it's taller than the OEM ball joint but I'm pretty sure we came to the conclusion that since it mounts to the control arm instead of the hub and therefore the roll center was untouched that difference in height doesn't matter. Not sure if anyone ever confirmed it somehow.

In the rear you can get as much camber as you want. Last year I was at 13" ride height and I was at 3.2 degrees for a while and they were not maxed out. No parts added to increase camber adjustment.

Not sure if any of the products on the market would allow you to change camber specifically without affecting toe.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #339  
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That, and if you are adding rear camber at an event because you need more "grip" the increased rear toe-in will also help calm the rear. win-win.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 09:12 AM
  #340  
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Thanks, guys. No particular reason to pick them up for the rear right now then.
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