I worked up a couple of JavaScript calculators to convert toe in degrees to inches and convert toe inches to degrees. It simply uses the toe angle from one wheel and the tire's diameter. Could you suspension gurus take a look and let me know if you agree with what's on the page? Thanks in advance.

Convert Toe Degrees to Inches

Convert Toe Inches to Degrees

 

that matches what I have for .25" total.. kinda

 

Josh, when I plug in .2861 for a 25.03" tire I get .24997" so that's pretty close to .25".

 

Yea for the sake of doing conversions it's very very close to what I came up with. I made that cheat sheet a while back because all you internet folk want to talk about .XX" toe when in reality I'm using degrees on a alignment rack to set my car up!

 

I was working on my home alignment using strings and went looking for a conversion calculator online and couldn't find one so I threw together some code. Just wanted to get a sanity check before too many people see it. Thanks for the verification Josh.

 

Your welcome Rob! nice calc you made! I'll probably be using it!

 

Under what circumstances have you determined that much camber actually necessary? The max I have run is -2.6*F/-2.4*R and I'm considering going back down. I thought increasing camber would net me higher overall cornering speed but I haven't seen anything to indicate it has accomplished much. The car isn't rolling over very far and pyro shows 10-20*F differential, increasing towards the inside.

Has anybody found a measurable difference with rear toe and straightaway speeds? Theoretically, a car with zero toe will create less drag than one with 1/4" total toe-in thus yielding a higher straightaway speed. I haven't experimented much with rear toe honestly. With every increase in rear toe the car has been easier to drive and, therefore, faster. Are there real-world circumstances where less rear toe is better (tire wear notwithstanding)?

My car is working brilliantly right now so I'm at a point where I might change something just to change it.

 

Unless you're pulling in from a hot lap, stopping in the pits (not paddock) and immediately getting the temp of the tires the outside edge will cool much faster than the inside because at cool down speeds the outside edge isn't doing much.

I'm running -3.5 front and -3 rear camber and the tire wear and temps are pretty optimal--lap times too.

The AP1 really does seem to like the factory recommended 0.25 inch total rear toe-in. I've tried less and didn't like it.

 

I am running -3F and -2.5R. The front tire wear is even in general with outer edge getting more, so flipping inside to out is needed occasionally. The rear wear is even in general with more on the inside 25% probably because of drag race starts for autox. Outside not so much. I am running R3s with 39 psi front and 37 psi rear.

What tires are you running? What pressures? Maybe you are not going fast enough in the turns?

 

LOL! Sometimes I wonder if I'm just not driving fast enough

I wore Dunlop Z1s evenly (no flipping required) at -2.4F/-2.2R. Hankooks, on the other hand, wore the outside faster and had to be flipped when I ran them at -2.4R/-2.2R. I wore another set of Dunlops evenly at -2.6F/-2.4R. I run between 34 and 36psi on the Dunlops but pressures don't seem to matter much. The new ZIIs are rolling even less on the outside, which is what brought this to mind.

I'm running on the stiff side with the Gendron 1.375" front bar, Gendron 0.975" rear bar, 900# front springs, 650# rear springs. Provided the rates aren't too much for the car/tires, I'd think higher rates and less camber might be harder to drive but faster than software rates and more camber. The car is intuitive to drive and far more stable than any time in the past.