Not really because it still uses half of the original Saner endlink assembly.

I found the "clunk" to be caused by worn out rod ends. The components included with the Saner kit are low-end rod ends - chrome plated ball, no liner, steel housing. As they wear, the clearance between the ball and housing increase, causing a "clunk" to occur during load reversal. The high-performance lubrication free rod ends wear significantly better. Rod ends with the PTFE/kevlar liner will wear even better than the ones I pointed out. P/N 4483T431 might work, if the reduce swivel range is OK. You could also consider P/N 2988K341 for more swivel range, but they get kinda pricey. Either of those part numbers will require tapping for the a different upper half.

There are some other endlink designs floating around the forum, as well.

 

Thanks for the detailed response and part numbers.

 

You still want to tighten everything with it on the ground, but it's much less of a big deal if you don't do it than it would be if you could truly get 0 preload with adjustable endlinks.

 

I'm running the Saner bar with Ohlins DFV coilovers. I got my endlinks from this guy...
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/927...ybar-endlinks/
This is an old thread but he has some for normal bars and some extended ones for the Saner. They work great, you might want to contact him.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm still running OEM shocks and springs so I'm not at the point of corner balancing the car yet. Is there any risk of rubbing/damage if I install the bar in the air? Is it worth the trouble to pre-load in this case?

 

Yes and yes, even with OEM shocks I would still follow the same procedure. With the bar disconnect drive it up on ramps and then attach the bar and endlinks.

 

Cool, I was actually looking for the same information. I purchased mine from anorexic poodle, the rears are longer than my OEM even adjusted all the way in is this normal?

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm still running OEM shocks and springs so I'm not at the point of corner balancing the car yet. Is there any risk of rubbing/damage if I install the bar in the air? Is it worth the trouble to pre-load in this case?
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You can install the bar in the air, you just have to do the final couple turns of the nut and torquing down of the endlinks on the ground. So have it all installed, drop it, then reach in and tighten. The ideal is if you have ramps, or you can put the car down on cinder blocks or something. For me I just do it on the trailer which is the ultra easy button.

If you don't have ramps/blocks/whatever, I'd recommend taking your jack, jack up the control arm at the ball joint until the jack point just lifts a very slight amount off the jack stand, then tighten that corner. Then repeat on the other side. That'll at least get you close enough, especially since you're gonna have preload anyway.

 

After getting tired of fighting the endlinks on my Saner bar, I upgraded to the new Karcepts FSB over the weekend. All of the parts seem to be of high quality and well engineered, and it came with detailed installation and adjustment instructions. Brian Karwan was also very prompt and detailed answering my questions and providing information on the bar. I haven't had a chance to play with the quick adjustment or use it out on an autocross course, I'll post up my thoughts once I have an opportunity to test it out.

 

Karcepts bar is far and away the best S2000 bar on the market. Allows for cheap center section purchases if you need to change rates, zero deflection mounting, quick adjustment, and light weight (14.5lbs for bars + mounts + hardware). Was a BIG front grip improvement over the bind city Saner I was running. Requires some other setup adjustments, but definitely a HUGE plus.