Marc,

I'd suggest using a spherical with a pressed-in stud, that should give you enough clearance since it looks like the bolt head is hitting the shock. Looks like there is room to bend the arm in as a second option, as well.

 

I agree ^^^

Should be the easiest way to solve the problem

 

What kind of bar is that, Marc? And I agree, an endlink like the ones that come with the SFR bar will solve your clearance problems.

 

Marc, There looks to be lots of room between the EL and the shock in the pic. If you jack up the control arm to ride height or higher does that gap close? By looking at it at full droop it does not look like it would interfere. Just wornering if the shock damage was caused by BB mount flex/sideload or normal clearance issue. Another check is the body OD of the ohlins much larger than your previous TCK koni's at that location?

 

I actually switched to this type of endlink where the bolt goes through the rod end because I was unable to get the necessary torque on the bolts with the other type to keep the endlinks from clunking. I have not noticed any clearance issues, but I'll be checking this saturday now that it's been brought up.

 

Me too and no clearance issues here, although I'm pretty sure I can't use the 4th hole. Any other hole and I'm good. If I want to use the 4th hole I have to use one of the ones with the stud.

Edit: Also I make sure to keep the endlinks pretty short - if they're both on the long side then it's closer to the shock.

 

You can achieve what ever torque you want if you put a 13mm wrench on the joint side of the endlink.

 

You would think that, but in certain configurations (specifically the 4th stiffest hole), the angle of the endlink prevented me from being able to seat the wrench on the bolt properly. If I loosened it enough to get the wrench in, once the endlink was tight, the wrench was stuck. (Yes, I flipped the endlink). With my new endlinks, this is much easier.

 

I bought a nice set of short wrenches just for the endlinks. Got it at Harbor Frieght. I keep the 13mm in the race toolbox just for that reason, I don't have any problems with it getting stuck in there.

 

FYI I did the same thing, bought some pricy gearwrench stubby metric wrenches, because that was the only possible way to tighten the endlinks. However, even with that I have the same problem where it takes me (relatively) forever to get everything so I can tighten it, then the wrench gets stuck and I have to bang it with a hammer to get it out, then sometimes the endlink is loosened, etc. It's not a problem on full stiff or on the softest settings but on 3-5 it is.

Plus you have to take the arm off in order to get the endlink out of the arm.

The ones without studs are so much better I can't even tell you. Now I don't have any of those problems. Worst case if I want to use the 4th hole I'll put one with a stud in the top position but keep my current joint + bolt on the bottom position - the bottom one is the problem anyway.