200lbs.... bodies? must be children if theres more than one hahah


Do it man.. saves alot of weight.. and for the track the sound wont matter.

 

I don't really have my car handy to go look, but how long of a straight pipe do we need before it exits behind the driver? Also, I know back pressure is a myth, but do we want a longer straight pipe or does that not matter? I want the lightest possible exhaust for big autocross events but I wasn't sure if I got a really short pipe if that would effect power at all. I know longer runners on the header effect the power band, does that apply to pipe after the catalytic converter? What is a resonable price to pay for a place to fac up a straight pipe?
Thanks,
Colin

 

I paid 275 for my Midas experience.
I believe that the pipe is about 5' long. I had it cut just after the cat since Midas didn't have a flange that could match the cat. A flange was welded to the stock pipes and to the new straighty so that the stock silencers and straighty can be interchanged.
I have since bought a $15 muffler from Auto Zone that is small and light. My goal is to now re-work the end of the straight pipe so that the muffler can be put on for travel to-from the track. Once at the track, I'd like to pop off the muffler.
Have NO idea about the straight pipe length affecting power. I can tell you that the stock cans are HEAVY! So, even if horsepower or power band is unaffected, to me, it is worth it for the weight loss.

CB

 

I forgot to note earlier that my flange and muffler pictures are on a "public" album in the gallery. I put the flange further back so I didn't have to fabricate a new bend over the frame member. I tend to over-engineer thus the three bolt flange. The pipe bend ahead of the muffler is a 45 degree mandrel bend from jc whitney.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=m...bum&album=13866

 

Colin - the effect a header has on managing exhaust pulses from the head has well been filtered out by the time it exits the cat - the pipe length after that should have little to no effect on power output.

When I measured the seat back location, it seemed to terminate right at the front edge of the rear tire when it was all the way back(I am 6'2" so I need more space than others). I made mine terminate rearward of the axle centerline to be absolutely sure it was far enough back after the run-around Jason got this year at Nationals. The pipe, bends, clamps etc I bought ran me $200, thankfully I had a friend who could weld it up for free.

-Drew

 

Thanks for the pictures, I was thinking about doing something like that. Since I am just interested in the straight pipe a large events like tours and nationals, I will just have a very short pipe made. I sit very close so I will probably be fine building a turndown before the brace. That way they don't need to make any akward bends. The brace I am guessing is easy to take off? Also, do the holes line right back up when putting it back? If so, I don't mind taking the stock exhaust off before big events.
-Colin

 

I have seen another pipe-drop where the driver cut just past the first muffler / damper. This way he still has the resonator and the first muffler in place. This cuts the weight of the two massive muffler cans and at the same time is not too loud.
My pipe only has the resonator and was cut before the first muffler /damper. Man is that loud! And it introduces lots of new vibration. My coins in the center console just rattle!
But, I'm likin' it!
CB

 

[QUOTE=pinkertonpunk,Jan 22 2007, 09:03 PM] Thanks for the pictures, I was thinking about doing something like that.

 

Any "melting" or adverse effects from a short turn-down pipe right after the cat? What about support? If you're deleting the stock exhaust cat-back - then you can't use the hangers further back correct? Does a short pipe just after the cat need hangers? Sounds like the biggest hurdle is getting a flange that matches the cat so interchanging is easy...

 

By far ... through all my experimentation, the best short pipe is a used OEM. Find an OEM exhaust and cut it right at the Y junction. This way, you get the resonator pipe, the initial muffler, and a hanger... and it all fits!
I don't know of any melting if a short pipe mounted right at the cat is turned down toward the street. I actually tried this. It is not suggested as the sound vibration rattles the car.

If one could find a flange that fits the cat and is able to route a straight pipe past the rear bumper, that will work too. My straight pipe was not bent correctly and ended up rubbing against the diff. I trashed the experiment, cut my losses, and bought an OEM used exhaust.