So, I decided to replace my lug nuts as preventive maintenance. I took the following OLD (left) vs NEW (right) pictures below.

Both lug nuts are aluminum 949 Racing Lugs. The old nuts are 6+ years old. I always hand torque and use a torque wrench; however, I know for a fact that most places where I've had work done on the car likely use an impact gun followed by a torque wrench. Anyway, on to the pictures, you can really see the difference in the shadows of the lug nuts.

 

I use closed gorilla lugs. I order them 2 sets at a time (amazon prime!) and once they show corrodsion, or they dont thread easy i take that as old-enough and throw them away (or more likely into my spares bucket). Sticky/corroded threads lead to inaccurate torque.

I usually rotate a set out over 12-18mo.

Also, if youre using open-ended lugs, dont forget a hydro-phobic lube (only on the thread, not mating surface) to keep moisture out of the threads. Ive seen too many people break studs because the open lug allowed moisture in and, then track heat cycles accelerated the corrosion.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll make sure to monitor this as a long term consumable item.
Yes. I used an anti-seize on the lugs, and haven't had any difficulties.

I always re-torque at the track at least a good 45 minutes after the first session to make sure i'm not putting stress on lugs/studs while everything is hot.

 

Time to take a closer look at my 949 lugs, I guess.

 

PCA doesn't allow aluminum lugs FWIW. I use Muteki steel SR48s.

 

I use simple steel open ended 17mm lugnuts from Vorshlag and anti-seize. You can get them in a lovely black finish as well.

 

I had a set of 949 lug nuts. They lasted me maybe 6-8 months and the threads started falling out. If you're impacting your lug nuts on and off, I wouldn't recommend them. I use MSI lug nuts, which is what NASCAR teams use and come teflon coated so they thread on and off smoothly. They're like 80 bucks a set.

 

I had used Ray's Duralum (sp) FOREVER w/o an issue but bought a set of 949 new for cheap. I never use a gun to install, only remove. I do use antisieze and torque to 85 ft/lbs religiously and have never had a problem with either set.

 

Another vouch for MSI. I have their lugs and studs. More durable than most others and the studs are stronger than ARP.

 

That "stretching" you are seeing is because you are using a conical seat lug nut (949) on a bubble seat wheel which is what most hondas use.

I use the conical seat on my 949 6UL wheels with no distortion. Once you use them on a stock wheel though they will start to look like that.