Track Days Destroy My Brakes!
#1
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Track Days Destroy My Brakes!
Hi All... I've been doing some research here on s2000 brakes and needs some thoughts.
Here is my deal, my 08' s2000 has been on the track 3 times. By the second trackday (at Thunderhill), I had worn out my stock rear brakes and boiled the fluid. After that I upgraded to Carbotech AX6 Pads (F&R), new rotors(Napa Premiums, F&R), and Motul RBF600.
Fast forward to yesterday at Laguna Seca. Brakes at the beginning of the day were great. I am very hard on them, into all corners braking hard and late. Half way through the day, I looked at the rotors and the fronts had slight grooves in them, but the petal still felt fine. By the end of the day, I had massive vibrations when applying the brakes. It seems a rotor is warped. My petal is also spongy, so it sounds like the fluid boiled. After every session, I would drive the car around for 5 min to let things cool, and never applied the parking brake (chocked the wheels when parked).
What are you guys doing to deal with these problems? Uprading to Stoptech big brakes is not an option, but what can I do to make these things work at the track? I'm still on the OE Bridgestone RE050's, btw.
Here is my deal, my 08' s2000 has been on the track 3 times. By the second trackday (at Thunderhill), I had worn out my stock rear brakes and boiled the fluid. After that I upgraded to Carbotech AX6 Pads (F&R), new rotors(Napa Premiums, F&R), and Motul RBF600.
Fast forward to yesterday at Laguna Seca. Brakes at the beginning of the day were great. I am very hard on them, into all corners braking hard and late. Half way through the day, I looked at the rotors and the fronts had slight grooves in them, but the petal still felt fine. By the end of the day, I had massive vibrations when applying the brakes. It seems a rotor is warped. My petal is also spongy, so it sounds like the fluid boiled. After every session, I would drive the car around for 5 min to let things cool, and never applied the parking brake (chocked the wheels when parked).
What are you guys doing to deal with these problems? Uprading to Stoptech big brakes is not an option, but what can I do to make these things work at the track? I'm still on the OE Bridgestone RE050's, btw.
#2
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I don't have an answer for you but just another perspective. My 2006 is WAY harder on brakes than my old 2003, I think it has to do with our Brake Assist system beating up the rotors. I've been through 2 sets of front rotors at the track in one day (Cobalt XR2 pads), a local here has done the same thing on his 2007 with Carbotech XP10s.
He's also tried DBA $$$ rotors with no improvement, they cracked/warped also.
He's also tried DBA $$$ rotors with no improvement, they cracked/warped also.
#3
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I can't dispute your fluid choice; I've used Motul RBF600 for many years and have never had a fault with it.
My suggestion would be to try some better rotors than what Napa is churning-out. The OEM rotors are really quite good, as are regular Brembo OEM replacements. You might also consider some cryo-treated rotors (http://frozenrotors.com/search/index...lectedIndex=19). Less expensive rotors are often made of inferior metal compounds, which makes me suspect the Napa ones you're using.
You may also consider some brake cooling ducts.
Ryan
My suggestion would be to try some better rotors than what Napa is churning-out. The OEM rotors are really quite good, as are regular Brembo OEM replacements. You might also consider some cryo-treated rotors (http://frozenrotors.com/search/index...lectedIndex=19). Less expensive rotors are often made of inferior metal compounds, which makes me suspect the Napa ones you're using.
You may also consider some brake cooling ducts.
Ryan
#4
Once I added ducts to cool the front rotors I never had a problem using Carbotech pads and stock rotors during many very demanding track days. This is on a MY2000 but it does not seem there should be that much difference.
#5
XP8's would be a more appropriate choice of pad for track duty.
I've had great results with them, and they're relatively streetable as well.
I've had great results with them, and they're relatively streetable as well.
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OEM rotors are as good as they get.
Use full track pads. The appropriate Carbotechs are XP10 front/XP8 rear.
You're using the right fluid. If you're boiling fluid, it is most likely because you're riding the brakes; passive brake cooling ducts wouldn't hurt, but you might carefully examine if you're really braking "late and hard."
If you warped a rotor, that's either because you had cheap rotors (NAPA doesn't sell rotors as good as OEM), or because you're generating too much heat (probably from riding the brakes).
More likely is that you have pad deposit on your rotors, which is consistent with the pads you're wearing and the rotors being very, very hot.
Use full track pads. The appropriate Carbotechs are XP10 front/XP8 rear.
You're using the right fluid. If you're boiling fluid, it is most likely because you're riding the brakes; passive brake cooling ducts wouldn't hurt, but you might carefully examine if you're really braking "late and hard."
If you warped a rotor, that's either because you had cheap rotors (NAPA doesn't sell rotors as good as OEM), or because you're generating too much heat (probably from riding the brakes).
More likely is that you have pad deposit on your rotors, which is consistent with the pads you're wearing and the rotors being very, very hot.
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#9
Motocrossman,
Give us a call. We can get you started in the right direction. You should be able to get several days on rotors, even if you're really hard on them. I race an S2000 at laguna, thunderhill, etc... and usually get 3-4 days on rotors. I have never boiled the fluid. It's in your break pad choice. Napa rotors really are not that bad. Better than most actually. Stock rotors will last the longest, but we're only talking cracking, not warping. With proper pads, you will not warp them.
Bill Lackey
925-292-5522
LPI Racing
Give us a call. We can get you started in the right direction. You should be able to get several days on rotors, even if you're really hard on them. I race an S2000 at laguna, thunderhill, etc... and usually get 3-4 days on rotors. I have never boiled the fluid. It's in your break pad choice. Napa rotors really are not that bad. Better than most actually. Stock rotors will last the longest, but we're only talking cracking, not warping. With proper pads, you will not warp them.
Bill Lackey
925-292-5522
LPI Racing
#10
Originally Posted by 124Spider,Dec 5 2008, 04:10 PM
OEM rotors are as good as they get.
Use full track pads. The appropriate Carbotechs are XP10 front/XP8 rear.
Use full track pads. The appropriate Carbotechs are XP10 front/XP8 rear.