Track tire life?
#11
[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]
Yeah I was aware that the markings are not important.. I was more concerned about changing the direction after they have already been run in.
[B]
Yeah I was aware that the markings are not important.. I was more concerned about changing the direction after they have already been run in.
#12
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Originally posted by RandyP
You can also remount them if they wear more on the outside than the inside.
You can also remount them if they wear more on the outside than the inside.
#13
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The visible difference inside/outside is in the tread blocks...
If your blocks are gone then there may no longer be a difference...
I dont know about internal construction tho..
If your blocks are gone then there may no longer be a difference...
I dont know about internal construction tho..
#14
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The tire carcass is completely symmetrical for the Kuhmo V700's. The tread pattern is asymmetrical, so initially you want to mount the tires with the large blocks on the outside. Once the tread is worn smooth (or mostly smooth) you can flip the tires on the wheels to get more life out of them.
As for switching sides and the direction of rotation, there shouldn't be a problem with that. I always rotated the tires on my Eclipse all around (all 4 the same size) so that the tires with the most tread were on the side of the car that would be the outside of most of the turns at an autox.
As for switching sides and the direction of rotation, there shouldn't be a problem with that. I always rotated the tires on my Eclipse all around (all 4 the same size) so that the tires with the most tread were on the side of the car that would be the outside of most of the turns at an autox.
#15
Chris,
Hell, I don't see no cords yet!
Unless TWS is really abrasive, you'll probably be ok for one more event. Better pray for dry weather! Your ride home could be challenging at like, 30 mph with those.
Just an observation, it looks like you could use just a touch more neg camber based on that tire wear. Whaddayathink?
Hell, I don't see no cords yet!
Unless TWS is really abrasive, you'll probably be ok for one more event. Better pray for dry weather! Your ride home could be challenging at like, 30 mph with those.
Just an observation, it looks like you could use just a touch more neg camber based on that tire wear. Whaddayathink?
#17
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If you have coilovers, lowering the car from stock height about 1/2 to 3/4" will give you some decent negative camber. I plan to drive the car to the track with a stock alignment at stock height, and drop the car 1/2" at the track with the R compound tires to get some neagative camber. Try it if you can.
#18
Be advised, a change in ride height will also change your static toe settings. If you are going to change your ride height at the track, you should be prepared to adjust toe as well.
#19
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cdelena, CoralDoc: I was on the track Monday and "felt" a sudden loss of grip on my Victoracers.
The transition was so quick that at one point I thought I had a flat. Back to the pits I re-checked the pressure which turned out ok (39 psi hot). I did notice that the wear holes were gone at this point.
The car felt like it had significanty less grip after that.
My conclusion at this point is that the soft compound is over when the wear holes are gone. What's your experience?
The transition was so quick that at one point I thought I had a flat. Back to the pits I re-checked the pressure which turned out ok (39 psi hot). I did notice that the wear holes were gone at this point.
The car felt like it had significanty less grip after that.
My conclusion at this point is that the soft compound is over when the wear holes are gone. What's your experience?
#20
The wear holes go away pretty quickly with no change in performance that I have noticed. I have seen very fast laps run with very smooth Victoracers so I doubt there is much of a change. I expect you were just feeling the change due to higher temps. On the other hand, when the cord shows though like it did to me this past weekend, it is time to retire the tire.