Yup, Jason Saini taught me that years ago when I asked him for help settling down my car's lift-throttle oversteer. He said that when you lift off the gas, the car was unweighting the back end (I'm sure I'm not using the technically correct terms here, but you get my drift), which was then free to pass the front end. His solution was to increase rear rebound to reduce this effect. I was skeptical, but he was right: a few more clicks on the rear rebound adjustment completely cured the lift-throttle oversteer.

So: I agree with TheNick that if you're trying to reduce push by increasing rear rebound damping, you may actually be having the opposite effect.

I don't own the brake pad threads. I also think upgraded brake pads on an autocross car are overrated.

 

I had that thought but I really like how smooth and progressive the rear of the car is as it breaks away. It is by far the most progressive S2000 that I have driven so I would rather just play with alignment and tires to get the overall balance I like if possible. The shock settings seem to be working well. I just adjust the front rebound to match how much from grip I want for each site.

 

Info posted so far looks great. Here's some more.

Kumho V710: New for 2009 245/45-16 Kumho V710 (square shoulder) isn't any wider than the old 225/50-16. I don't know if the compound or construction has changed enough to make them faster.

General feeling about Kumho vs. Hoosier: Hoosiers turn in razor sharp, Kumhos feel like marshmallows by comparison. Kumhos appear to be lasting longer but I wouldn't quote that.

Brake Pads: Stock pads are definitely adequate. We switched to PBR Ceramic (aka Ultimates) this year and the difference isn't huge, but initial bite is harder than stock. Corey and I feel they are an improvement.

 

Some additional data points:

I ran the Packwood NT (very bumpy lot, lots of elevation change) on a 275/295 setup mounted on stock wheels on my non-CR AP2. Stock shocks, Gendron Bar on the 4th of 6 holes (can go 2 stiffer). I did remove 2 fender liner clips from each side on the front (the uppermost ones) and left a few minor rub marks on the tires, but otherwise everything was A-ok! The rear did not rub that I could tell. I would say that on a less bumpy lot, the rubbing issues would likely be non-existent.

To back up the validity of this setup, my co-driver and I had the fastest and second fastest clean runs on Sunday (2nd and 3rd fastest scratch, I believe Ankeney was the only faster driver on Sunday) We were on year old tires (everyone ahead of us was on more or less fresh ones, except for Dahl in the GXP). Had I not had my head in my @ss on Saturday, we could have both been in the trophies (co-driver was 3rd, I was 7th).

Butt dyno says that this setup takes longer to "set" in transitions, but once set offers much higher steady-state grip. I would think on a sweeper intensive course this setup would have the advanatage. On a transition heavy course, I would probably prefer the old stand-by 245/275 setup.

 

Got to add the "captain_pants DIY" exhaust as a cheap alternative that's lighter than most aftermarket exhausts: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=617205


Also mention catch cans - I think they're pretty much standard equipment for anyone running R compounds. I know I get about 0.5L to 1L after 8 runs in mine, that's oil that would have coated the valves and went through the cat otherwise!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry14173304

 

I'll admit I haven't looked at the rules lately, but I'm thinking catch cans aren't legal in Stock class.

 

Yup they are. Have been for years

 

 

Good to know. Thanks!

 

I'm going to agree with Marc and Nick that alignment is hard to translate over the internet. What alignment works for you is going to vary depending on driving style and what parts you have on the car. On my 06 with the Comptech front bar, and both the OEM shocks and OTS Konis I needed min camber(-1.3) and zero toe in the rear to get the car balance the way I liked. As soon as I put the Penske 8300's on the car, I had to go the exact opposite direction(-2.8 camber and 1/4 toe in). This was on 245/275 Hoosiers and Kumhos.

I think we can all still agree on max front camber then max caster while maintaining that camber figure. I tried toe-out in the front, but didn't like the mid-corner push the car picked up steady state, and its not like this car has a problem turning in to begin with

I will say that alignment definetely has the most effect on handling balance of the mods you can do in AS. Spend some time trying different stuff, its worth it. I probably went through 6-7 different alignments before I finally settled on one I liked.

I have an exhaust setup similar to Corey, except mine is the unresonated Supersprint setup with a v-band cut into the mid pipe just past the axle. One clamp and 4 exhaust hangers take my exhaust down to a 30" section of 2.5" 18ga pipe. Light as hell(7lbs) and it sounds mean too