trump26901

Well guys, I've jumped into the deep end since adding a SOS supercharger to my car. I track the car only at HPDE days so I have no rules limiting my mods. My "home" track is NJMP which has two courses which aren't particularly speedy, but have a nice mix of mid-speed turns. Last season I could see I totally was over the limit of the stock brakes w/ mods like vents/pad upgrades and so I recently installed front/rear wildwood BBKs. Unfortunately the rears didn't fit the OEM rims so I have since upgraded my rims to an 18"x9" square setup running 255s.

I have WKv3's on the car, but I'm sure I have to do something more to help what I'm sure is going to be massive oversteer on the track. I'm leaning towards getting an APR GTC-200 wing w/ riser and taking off the wing for daily driving.

My question is. Should I go with this wing or should I get a big swaybar? I'm thinking wing, but I'm unsure if that is the right solution given most of my turns are in the 50-70mph range and the wing data I see all shows 80+mph performance data.

yamahaSHO

I'd start with the sway bar and potentially stiffer spring rates.

Sebring AP1

If I had to drive my car (wingless) as it is with another 100 hp, 100ish tq I'd for sure lean towards a wing. I have no idea where you are skillwise as a driver but I imagine going fast in a boosted wingless S is like trying to ride a pissed off bull with wild gerbils up its ass on hot coal.

TwoRs

LMAO !!!
I agree, stock at speed is really interesting at times!

b505

Lots of fast guys here in SoCal will agree with the wing being a great stability mod at speed.
It sounds counter intuitive as it might raise the limits of the car, but on the S, its actually easier to drive with the wing.

decepticondc5

what kept was interfering in the rear after the BBK went on? Seems odd that the rear brakes would force you to go up to a 18" wheel.

iLuveketchup

Wondering how fast you were running NJMP Lightning & Thunderbolt to be over the limit of OEM brakes with racing pads? Are you on Hoosiers?

sillyboybmxer

Well,. thats sig worthy.

trump26901

Last time out at Thunderbolt I was around 1:40 on RE-11's, but it wasn't really sustainable because they would get greasy through the octopus and I soon wasn't able to threshold brake as the my XP10's melted away which is a bit unnerving for pushing the car 130+ into turn 1. My low speeds though the turns according to harry's lap timer are 60, 85, 75, 55, 65, 60-70 in the right turn and 50-60 in the left turn of the octopus, then 90 going through the esses and 110 into the strait. I really can't say what I'll get those speeds up to because generally by the time I got my tires up to temp to get some better grip, my brakes were starting to fade so I was generally braking too early into most turns and getting off the brakes early because I ran into a number of times (particularly around turn 4 which is the first real brake turn after turn 1) where the brakes were so faded from the heat at turn 1 that I would totally miss the apex and actually risk going into the grass.

I have the spring rates that the KWv3's came with and that is about as stiff as I want to go for driving on the road. I know I can adjust (and will) adjust the suspension settings to dial back the oversteer, but I'm thinking the wing is the way to go to make it more manageable. I'm just curious from those who use a wing like the GTC-200, does it still help you through those 50-80MPH turns which are below any graphs I see for data on the wings or is it just rear ballast at those lower speeds?

As for the extra 150HP... Its fun, but actually manageable, but I really don't push the power to the limit right out of the turn because I'm only doing HPDE and I'm driving for fun and not to get that last .25sec. I drive mostly with the Porsche Club and the extra power really helps passing those nervous GT3 and turbo owners who aren't as fast through the turns but then used to be able to just run away at the straits. Now I can ride their ass into the turn and then stick to it in the strait. Before I could catch them, they would slow me down in the turn and then they would ride away so quick that even the flaggers wouldn't think I was really getting held up and it would generally take 3-4 laps before either the driver realized I was actually faster than him or before the flaggers realized I was faster.

As for the problem with fitment for the rears, the interior diameter of the OEM rim was just slightly smaller than the height of the caliper. There could be some other 17" rim that it will fit inside, but I decided to go 18" just to be sure I had plenty of clearance and to give all the components a little more air around the rotors. The front/rear now actually almost look small in the 18" rims!

SHG_Mike

x2 sound like you were on the wrong pads. The SCCA ITR race car I helped campaign which had to weigh 3005lbs with square 245 Hoosier R6's ran all weekend on DTC70 pads without a hitch.

If you were on good pads you may need to tweak the driver mod and use less brakes.

In any case in the situation your in now, I would check/change your alignment and adjust your roll stiffness to achieve the proper balance. The driver of the SCCA car preferred a pushy car and we had no problem making the car super stable and educe a slight push with no aero what so ever. The problem with the wing will be that it may be come too pushy at speed and too loose at low speed.

Its all about driver preference, but as long as you are methodical and scientific about your tuning you will get the car the way you want.