I always double clutch it when I heeltoe (I thought it was a part of heeltoeing) since I usually use it when I'm making right turns coming from, say a 45 mph road.

This is what I do (unless I don't feel like heeltoeing):

I would probably have it in 5th or 6th gear

1. neutral
2. brake
3. when nearing the turn, heeltoe to revmatch for 2nd gear
4. during the turn, put it into second and go

 

As I explained in an earlier post, heal/toe is necessary any time you need to operate all three foot controls at the same time. This includes both rev matching and double clutching IF you want to brake at the same time.

If you're double clutching so that the synchros aren't overworked then I don't see any way that skipping gears can cause additional synchro wear (assuming that the double clutch is well executed). If you're not double clutching, then working sequentially through the synchros reduces their workload.

 

Are those extra steps really necessary?

 

Something tells you didn't read this whole thread, and just skipped to the end. Go back top page one and read xviper's posts. THen keep reading the entire thread.

 

I applaud RED for continuing on with this. I gave up about 1/2 way through the first page. RED's got some really good stuff. No need for me to interupt.
It's really difficult to teach people how to drive a car over the internet. There are so many scenarios that a finite set of procedures will cover. The best example was when someone asked about what to do when a kid jumps out in front of you. How do you handle the shifting and what gear to be in. (Go back and see my response to that one.)
There will always be a "good" way and a "bad" way to do things. There is no ONE way to do things. Being a good driver means to be able to take all the "good" information given and sorting through all of it and doing what the situation demands.
Sure, you shouldn't be "skip shifting" BUT it can be done IF you know how to double clutch and match the revs. Most people don't understand this, so sometimes it's better to just make a blanket statement and say "don't do it". I think that's what Woodwork had in mind.

RED, carry on.

 

ok I'm 16 and I own one of these wonderful cars. I've driven standard transmissions on 2 cars, a mazda B2200(truck) and an old nissan stanza
(car). i "learned" to shift when i was about 7 from my mom saying,"3rd" *I'd put it into 3rd from the passenger seat* then her calling another gear when she was ready to shift again. of course she wouldn't let me do it anywhere like the freeway or anything but on the way home on our streets it would be fine. the truck i started to drive when i was 16 just to do chores for my father. Now what I would like to clear up for myself are just a few things.

1. When i am in a starting position i shift into first and go but when I shift into second the car jolts a little not a big jolt, but a jolt. I probably shift at about 3.5k rpm. the jolts are less and less intense the farther i go up the gears.(now i know better then to just let the clutch out slow because that wears the clutch quickly. When i drove the truck the gears never jolted. if you weren't looking at the shifter then you would not be able to tell that i shifted. I believe that maybe this was due to springier suspension but i could be totaly wrong.

2. double clutching. sometimes when i want to feel the s2k be a S2K i accelerate quickly going to 9k rpm and shift into 2nd until about 60. then clutch->neutral->rev match to about 3.5k->clutch->drop it into 6th.-> depress clutch <-- is that totally wrong and screwing my sync's? should i go threw the 3 4 5 just rev matching till 6th?

There are a few more things i wish to clear up but i can't type as my wrists hurt since i broke both of them on Wednesday. so i'll be here on the boards more because i can't drive my beautiful car..


thank you for all your answers in advance.

 

This is because you are not quite matching revs closely enough. Remember that "matching revs" on an upshift doesn't have to be exact as long as you input the correct amount of clutch and throttle at the right time. I call this "clutch/throttle/shift" sycronization or coordination.

A Mazda pickup truck has a lot more driveline "slop". An S2000 has much less. The more slop you have, the more it can absorb some of the driver's deficiencies. It has little to do with suspension.

I think you've got your sequence out of whack here and your terminology is wrong (even though you might understand what you're thinking). I think what you're trying to do is double clutch, match revs, skip shift. If done correctly, this will have no bad consequences on the syncros. However, the way you've written it down, it appears you are doing it incorrectly.
So, from 2nd doing about 60 would put you pretty much at or near redline. You then push the clutch down and go to neutral (you let off the gas, right?) - so far, so good.
Then you "rev match" to 3.5K. In actuality, you are simply allowing the revs to drop down to 3.5K (unless you've let it go to idle in this time, in which case, you need to bring it back up a bit). Now comes the first aboration in your sequence. You say you now "clutch". I'm sure you didn't. Since your clutch was already on the floor at this time, to "clutch" means you lifted up. With the clutch up, you cannot "drop it into 6th". Then you say you "depress clutch". This means that you've just disconnected the engine from the rest of the drivetrain. You are no longer going down the road under power. You are just coasting.
I'm sure this was all just a typing error. But, assuming that you did it correctly, then there is no harm in doing this. However, it's hard to tell if you actually did it correctly since you didn't type that down in the correct way. Therefore, without knowing exactly how you did it, it would be safer to recommend that you go through each gear sequentially to get to 6th.
And herein lies the crux of all these discussions. It is nearly impossible to tell exactly how a person actually drives since communicating over the internet requires some semblance of typing ability (busted wrists don't help here) and thought organization.

 

[QUOTE=xviper,Feb 3 2006, 03:11 PM]I applaud RED for continuing on with this.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Exactly what i ment to say just didn't get it all out there. I do exactly like that and i'm really happy that ive been doing it right. It's kinda hard to think when all you can focus on is the pain in both of your wrists with every stroke of the key board.

so is there a good RPM to shift at to get rid of the jolt? or should i just apply a bit more clutch?

 

There is no universal answer to this question. The revs you need to match to depends on the road speed you are going at the time, the characteristic of your clutch release and throttle input. It becomes an individual trial and error approach as each person would have a slightly different shift syncronization.