Some people don't drive in the rain to even get it dirty enough to wash!

 

I've posted previously in depth regarding S2000 car care, but just to touch in some of the others points.

Keep in mind that in my past, I used to be a professional detailer. I worked on prestige used cars as well as brand new Acuras (Honda's) in Australia.

1. Use warm water in the bucket, and never dip the sponge all the way down into the bucket. It will pick up grit/sediment on the bottom of the bucket. Wash the car from top to bottom, not the other way around, and wash wheels last with a separate sponge. Best to wash the soft top window BEFORE you put the sponge to any other part on the car. Wash the window in an up and down motion.

2. In light of the fact that I can't afford an air compressor right now (the best option), I use a Sears Craftsman 205mph leaf blower. I find it works very well. I then use 'The Absorber' to dry the rest of the car. I do not use a leather chamois, as I find the absorber picks up better. You can also cut a 1/3 off the Absorber large size and use this to dry the wheels if you don't have a leaf blower.

By the way, good body shops use an air compressor on their cars as thet don't want to be responsible for 'scratching' the customers car. No flames to anybody that swears by it, but I have tried the Water Blade in the past and will no longer use it. It scratched my C5 Corvette in '00. Basically, you want as little contact with the surface of the car, and you can't guarantee this with the water blade. The silicone is not as soft as they say it is!

3. I NEVER drive my car around the block to remove excess water. As others have said, it is guaranteed to pick up contaminants in/on the paint. Use accellerated air from a blower or compressor instead. By the way, use ear muffs when doing this!! Do not dry or polish the car in the sun either. I always do mine in the garage with the door closed. If you leave the door open, a wind tunnel effect can happen drawing dust into your garage and onto your car

4. ALWAYS dry/polish/wax in a front to back motion for horizontal surfaces, and up and down motion for vertical surfaces. Don't believe me...check with Zaino on this one too. It is a detailers secret.

5. Stick with Zaino products. The more coats you put on, the better your car will look! Meguiars and Mothers are absolute crap compared to Zaino, and I'm not getting a cent of endorsement for this. I have not used a better quality product than Zaino.

6. Use premium quality Fieldcrest/Cannon 100% cotton or Cotton/Algodon towels (or equivalent brand). Get them from Sams Club or even the Egyptian cotton Marth Stewart towels from KMart are good. DO NOT use the bag of 100% cotton towels from Pep Boys or the local automotive supplier. While the towel is 100% cotton (very cheap cotton at that), these towels use polyster stitching. Now, I know you'll initially feel crazy cutting up a perfectly good plush cotton bath towel (I did.....it's only natural!), but think about how much your car's paint is worth!!!!!!!

Well, that's about it for now.

Cheers!

 

California Water Blade and the Super Absorber works for me.

 

I bought a california waterblade, and i dunno, i used it on my mom's pathfinder and it saves a crapload of time.. damn bigole suvs, but i used it on my prelude and it scratched a part of it.. i got pissed so i dont use the waterblade to dry the prelude anymore. i guess a leaf or somethin got caught between the blade and the paint and thats wut scratched it.. but regardless i dont like the feel of how it cleans off the water.. doesn't work that well to me.. i'll still use it on the pathfinder though. As for my dad's s2k, he uses a chamois to dry it off and avoids circular motion.. i wanan try the leaf blower idea though! drying off the car is the most annoying part!

 

I haven't noticed a single scratch - hairline or otherwise - that I can attribute to the Blade. Contaminants will definitely introduce some scratching. This is why, after every other wipe or so, I wipe the blade itself with either a clean damp cloth or my fingers. Your fingers can tell you if there's any significant dirt or grime on that blade.

I think this thread illustrates the overall objective to keep in mind:
Avoid any type of contaminants contacting your paint when washing and drying the car!

Of special notice: The S2000 International Fleece Jacket has metal zipper pulls on the pockets. Do NOT wear it when washing your S2000

- Chris

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by animeS2K
[B]I haven't noticed a single scratch - hairline or otherwise - that I can attribute to the Blade.

 

If you use the California Waterblade, which I do, you have to keep it clean or risk scratching the paint. Used properly the thing is a dream.

Never thought of the leaf blower idea, though. I'm going to have to try it.

 

I use the Blade.

What I do before I dry the car is wet the blade with the hose, take a soapy sponge out of the bucket, wipe the blade down real well, and rinse.

I havent had any problems.

 

I use the blade to get the majority of the water off then pull out the shop-vac and vacuum the water out of the tail lights, mirrors, emblems, etc. then finish up with the absorber.

 

My gas powered blower will blow exhaust (oil) on the car, only use electric. A clean Blade doesn't scratch, it's the dirt on the car. If there is dirt present, an absorber or chamois will scratch IMHO. Maybe the electric blower is the best?