I am adding my name to the list of the "rear speaker believers". I did the install myself...not too hard when using lucid's excellent instrutions and pictures. I put Kenwood 1687's in the doors and 1077's behind the seats and the result is incredible. Thanks for the great idea lucid.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TKG 26
[B]someone keeps saying "install lucids rear speakers"

do the panels come with speakers?

 

Don't kid yourself though folks. No matter WHAT you do with the stereo, it is basically impossible to make it sound that good at highway speeds with the top down.

I have MB quarts, a Pioneer DP930 head, and rear speakers backed up by over 100 wpc and I still am usually tempted to just turn it all off on the freeway.

doug

 

dougq,

try installing tweets - it will transform your stereo. you won't need 100wpc.

i have a small punch amp running the doors and tweets and it's clear at highway speeds (top down) - i just want some rear fill to complement the doors as they get a little drowned out at speed - hence my participation/contribution to this thread.

the tweets really keep the clairity at speed - i'm sure the way mine are mounted has everything to do with my satisfaction of them (sound goes straight to my ears) - it was also the first mod i did to the car - literally a week into ownership.

is there anyone out there that has tweeters AND rears?

 

I HAVE tweeters and rears, and the high end of the stereo is fairly audible at all times if you crank it. However, do not kid yourself. Unless that is all you really want, it is still a fact that no system will sound that great at freeway speeds. SURE you can HEAR it but that in and of itself is a pretty low standard.

I will admit, however, that if one can get good sub performance from the trunk, one may be able to take big strides in getting decent sound. Highs and mids can be fairly audible even at 90 mph with the top down. But no door speaker can do any justice to anything below 100 hz. at those volumes, and, in fact, you really need to cross that stuff out to get the best sound from the midrange. So I am stilll somewhat optimistic that subwoofer supplementation will give me audio that I find acceptable at freeway speeds given my head units reasonably flexible graphic equalizer. Absent that, a LOT depends on what sort of music one listens to.

But adding rear speakers can give you some midrange punch in the back if that is your thing.

doug

 

dougq,

where are your tweets mounted?

yeah, MB's are sweet - they didn't fit into my budget when i did mine - oh well.

notwithstanding roof down, it must sound really nice with the roof up.

also, does roof down and windows up make a difference for you?

 

I went ahead and had them mounted near the stock speakers in the doors. I did not consider this optimal either, but I am surprised how well they image from there. I actually thought the stock speakers imaged well which is why I consented to put the tweets down there as a nod to security issues. It draws less attention to a modified stereo system.

Mounting them higher would almost certainly have increased audibility a bit more on the freeway, but audibility isn't my primary issue. My primary issue is that to drive the door speakers hard enough to get bass in the 100 hz. range, much music will cause the door speakers to distort.

Putting the windows up does help as does Rick's bigg-a$$ screen.

I guess my major suggestion to people WOULD be to put in new speakers and tweets and probably to do the rear speakers as well. If you ARE going to change the head unit make sure to get one that allows you to change the crossover points of both the front and the rear. If you are not going to get that, then don't even BOTHER changing the head unit, because I don't think the fidelity you are going to get with the top down will justify the cost.

doug