Anyone removed or raised their seats?
#1
Thread Starter
Anyone removed or raised their seats?
How difficult is it to remove the seats in the S2000?
Has anyone raised them? If so, how was that accomplished?
I'm average heigth at 5'11'' but have a 36" sleave length (i.e., long arms in proportion). I'd like more elbow room when driving, especially when gripping the steering wheel at the bottom. Frankly, it gets very tiring always holding the wheel at the top in an effort to keep from rubbing the center console and door rest with my elbows. Raising the seat another 1.5 to 2" should provide the extra clearance I'd like. So any help would be appreciated.
Has anyone raised them? If so, how was that accomplished?
I'm average heigth at 5'11'' but have a 36" sleave length (i.e., long arms in proportion). I'd like more elbow room when driving, especially when gripping the steering wheel at the bottom. Frankly, it gets very tiring always holding the wheel at the top in an effort to keep from rubbing the center console and door rest with my elbows. Raising the seat another 1.5 to 2" should provide the extra clearance I'd like. So any help would be appreciated.
#2
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Very easy to remove.
2 front 12mm bolts
2 rear 14mm bolts
1 seatbelt power cable from the car to the seat
If you have the oem alarm, it's bolted to the bottom of your seat.
I guess you can put a thick washer or multiple washers between the seatrails and the floor. I'm not sure how that's going to affect the stability of the seat. Also, I'm not sure if it's going to affect the strength at which the seat will be bolted down to the floor with the washers in place.
2 front 12mm bolts
2 rear 14mm bolts
1 seatbelt power cable from the car to the seat
If you have the oem alarm, it's bolted to the bottom of your seat.
I guess you can put a thick washer or multiple washers between the seatrails and the floor. I'm not sure how that's going to affect the stability of the seat. Also, I'm not sure if it's going to affect the strength at which the seat will be bolted down to the floor with the washers in place.
#3
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I believe several ppl have already done this. I remember seeing a few posts which decribed how to do it, with useful tips. You might want to try doing a search for "seat adjustment".
#5
Thread Starter
Originally posted by S2R
Very easy to remove.
2 front 12mm bolts
2 rear 14mm bolts
1 seatbelt power cable from the car to the seat
If you have the oem alarm, it's bolted to the bottom of your seat.
I guess you can put a thick washer or multiple washers between the seatrails and the floor. I'm not sure how that's going to affect the stability of the seat. Also, I'm not sure if it's going to affect the strength at which the seat will be bolted down to the floor with the washers in place.
Very easy to remove.
2 front 12mm bolts
2 rear 14mm bolts
1 seatbelt power cable from the car to the seat
If you have the oem alarm, it's bolted to the bottom of your seat.
I guess you can put a thick washer or multiple washers between the seatrails and the floor. I'm not sure how that's going to affect the stability of the seat. Also, I'm not sure if it's going to affect the strength at which the seat will be bolted down to the floor with the washers in place.
#6
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1Y2KS2K
[B]I believe several ppl have already done this.
[B]I believe several ppl have already done this.
#7
Hi dlq04,
If you want to get more adjustment than a few washers will give you (probably about 1/4" to 3/8" max.) use a steel fabricated spacer and longer bolts to assure good contact. The spacer should be steel and of sufficient size to give good bearing surfaces around it for the mounting surfaces on the seat. I forget, it's been awhile since I had the seats off, but usually there is a raised "foot" on the stamped steel of the seat bottom, or on the mating surface of the floor, or both. You would want to match that with the size of the spacer to reduce sheer on the bolt.
Use at least the same quality bolt removed and increase the length the height of the spacer, and torque down to the required tightness.
Have fun
JohnA
Gone but not forgotten '59 MGA,'64 TR4
If you want to get more adjustment than a few washers will give you (probably about 1/4" to 3/8" max.) use a steel fabricated spacer and longer bolts to assure good contact. The spacer should be steel and of sufficient size to give good bearing surfaces around it for the mounting surfaces on the seat. I forget, it's been awhile since I had the seats off, but usually there is a raised "foot" on the stamped steel of the seat bottom, or on the mating surface of the floor, or both. You would want to match that with the size of the spacer to reduce sheer on the bolt.
Use at least the same quality bolt removed and increase the length the height of the spacer, and torque down to the required tightness.
Have fun
JohnA
Gone but not forgotten '59 MGA,'64 TR4
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#8
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diq04: I changed the search to "seat height" and found this thread which might help you: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...ght=seat+height
#9
Thread Starter
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1Y2KS2K
[B]diq04:
[B]diq04:
#10
Thread Starter
Progress Report - Initial Setting.
The front bolt is 8 x 1.25mm (metric fine) with 12mm head at 16# torgue.
The back bolt is 10 x 1.25mm with 14mm head at 22# torgue.
The wiring under the seat is disconnected by pushing down in the center of the connection that goes into the connector hocked to the seat bottom.
I raised the driver
The front bolt is 8 x 1.25mm (metric fine) with 12mm head at 16# torgue.
The back bolt is 10 x 1.25mm with 14mm head at 22# torgue.
The wiring under the seat is disconnected by pushing down in the center of the connection that goes into the connector hocked to the seat bottom.
I raised the driver